The fashion industry's much-publicised commitment to body diversity appears to be faltering, according to a stark new analysis from Vogue Business. After years of gradual progress, the presence of plus-size models on international runways has seen a dramatic reversal, dropping to levels not seen since before the pandemic.
The Data Doesn't Lie: A Concerning Trend
Vogue Business's comprehensive review of the Spring/Summer 2025 fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan, and Paris reveals a troubling picture. The analysis found that plus-size representation has fallen significantly across all major fashion capitals, with some cities showing declines of over 50% compared to previous seasons.
This backslide comes after several years of steady improvement, where consumers and activists had begun to see genuine momentum toward more inclusive casting. The sudden reversal has left industry observers questioning whether the fashion world's embrace of body diversity was merely a temporary trend rather than a lasting commitment.
London's Mixed Performance
While London has often positioned itself as a progressive force in fashion, the data shows the city was not immune to this global trend. Several prominent British designers who had previously championed size inclusion returned to overwhelmingly straight-size casting this season.
One London-based model, who preferred to remain anonymous, expressed disappointment: "We felt like we were finally making real progress. To see opportunities disappearing so quickly is disheartening and makes you wonder if the industry ever truly believed in representing all bodies."
Industry Experts Voice Concerns
Fashion insiders point to several potential factors behind this regression. Some suggest economic pressures and a conservative shift in creative direction may be influencing casting decisions. Others believe the industry has moved its diversity focus to other areas, inadvertently neglecting size inclusion.
Sarah Morgan, a fashion diversity consultant based in Manchester, told us: "When budgets get tight or trends shift, inclusivity often becomes the first casualty. What we're seeing is that without constant pressure and accountability, old habits return surprisingly quickly."
The Consumer Impact
This runway retreat has significant implications beyond the fashion bubble. Research consistently shows that consumers respond positively to diverse representation, with many shoppers expressing frustration when they don't see themselves reflected in brand imagery.
The decline comes at a particularly sensitive time, as the body positivity and body neutrality movements continue to gain mainstream traction. Industry watchers worry that this disconnect between consumer values and runway reality could damage brand loyalty among a significant portion of the market.
What Comes Next?
As the fashion world looks ahead to the next season, the question remains whether this downturn represents a temporary blip or a more permanent regression. Advocacy groups are already mobilising to put pressure on designers and casting directors ahead of the upcoming fashion weeks.
The situation serves as a stark reminder that progress toward genuine inclusion requires constant vigilance. Without sustained commitment from all industry stakeholders, hard-won gains in representation can quickly evaporate, leaving the fashion world looking less like the diverse society it claims to serve.
