Mary Portas said the Nineties were an unforgettable decade for her, having arrived at Harvey Nichols in 1989 as head of display. Over eight years, she helped transform the luxury department store into a destination, with window displays featuring Thomas Heatherwick sculptures and Admiral Lord Nelson in Westwood.
Writing about her experiences, Portas acknowledged the positives: the optimism, daring and energy of the decade, from Versace and Tom Ford at Gucci to the rise of Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan. Rave culture, Britpop and New Labour all swept through. But she also recalled the compromises: a male-dominated power structure where bullying was accepted, poor maternity pay, and the need to wear 'an armour of steel'.
Portas said she understands why Gen Z are fascinated with the Nineties, pointing to a world without smartphones and social media, where mistakes could be made without going viral. She noted that despite having no family support, she could afford rent in London, unlike many young people today. However, she cautioned that the decade also accelerated consumerism, which has had severe social and environmental consequences.
Reflecting on her own career, Portas said she believed hard work would create opportunities, but acknowledged that such optimism is harder today. Her new book, inspired by Barbara Kruger's 'I Shop Therefore I Am', addresses the consumerist culture unleashed in that era. Portas's message to Gen Z is that while the Nineties offered freedom and creativity, it was not perfect – and they can do better.
