At 72 years young, American menswear designer Jeffrey Banks is experiencing what many would call a breakout year. The fashion veteran is simultaneously releasing his deeply personal memoir while preparing to relaunch his eponymous clothing label with a fresh, sustainable focus.
From Co-author to Storyteller: A Fashion Journey
After spending years co-authoring seven books on fashion, Banks has finally decided to share his own remarkable story. His new memoir, "Storyteller: Tales from a Fashion Insider," chronicles more than five decades in the industry, from his early days working for Ralph Lauren to launching his own successful label.
Banks first debuted his label of polished tailoring and American sportswear back in 1976 when he was just 21 years old. His designs stood out for their bold use of colour and texture, featuring tartan plaid jackets, pinstriped suits, and luxurious furs. At a time when Black designers were scarce in the industry, his collections were being sold in major department stores including Macy's and Bergdorf Goodman, securing multimillion-dollar deals.
A New Chapter: Sustainable Sportswear and Industry Recognition
The designer's comeback year has been marked by significant achievements. One of his designs was selected by the Metropolitan Museum of Art for its "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style" exhibit, while he prepares to relaunch his Jeffrey Banks menswear label in January with a renewed focus.
The relaunch represents a strategic pivot away from traditional suiting toward sustainable sportswear, including knits and underwear. "As much as I love suits and tailored clothing," Banks told The Associated Press, "I don't think that's the business for now, and the business of young people."
The fashion community has enthusiastically supported Banks during his book tour. The Council of Fashion Designers of America recently hosted a conversation between Banks and fellow designer Isaac Mizrahi to celebrate the publication. Mizrahi, who previously worked for Banks on his womenswear line, described him as a trendsetter in commercial fashion.
"I was so inspired when I was working with him, and he was one of the first people to do a lot of things at once," Mizrahi recalled. "I looked at that, and I thought that was real success."
Personal Motivations and Fashion Legacy
Banks' memoir serves as a heartfelt tribute to the family, loved ones, and fashion friends who supported him throughout his career. One particularly touching motivation for writing the book was ensuring his mother could read it before she turns 105 in January.
"She instilled in me and in my sister, as did my father, the idea that if we wanted something bad enough and we were willing to work hard enough for it, we could achieve and get anything that we wanted," Banks shared. "And the fact that we were Black, that shouldn't make a difference."
The designer's bond with his mother extended to their shared love of clothing. At just ten years old, Banks designed a yellow asymmetrical wool coat and matching sheath dress for her to wear on Easter Sunday.
Former CFDA President Stan Herman, 97, described Banks as a natural storyteller with impeccable memory, joking that he "was born with a Vogue in his crib." The memoir features entertaining anecdotes and photographs of fashion industry icons including the late designer Perry Ellis and celebrities like Bobby Short, Barbra Streisand, and Audrey Hepburn.
Mentors and Milestones: Building a Fashion Empire
Banks credits fashion giants Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein as significant mentors who shaped his career. He first met Lauren as a teenager while working at Britches of Georgetowne, a menswear store in Washington, D.C. In a touching gesture, Lauren gave Banks one of his personal suits to wear for prom before the young designer later worked for him while attending Pratt Institute.
"Ralph always treated me like an equal, I mean, from Day One," Banks remembered. "He always said ... I'm his other son."
While studying at Parsons School of Design, Banks was personally recruited by Calvin Klein. At his first fashion show, Banks strategically seated Klein and Lauren next to each other. It was during his time building Klein's menswear line that Banks received the opportunity to launch his own label.
His fashion empire expanded to include men's outerwear with Lakeland, furs with Alixandre, a Jeffrey Banks Boys' line, and womenswear. In 1980, he was approached to overhaul Merona Sport, a family sportswear brand that he transformed into a commercial powerhouse. Under his direction, the brand's revenue skyrocketed from $7 million to $70 million within just six months - an achievement Mizrahi described as "striking gold."
As Banks returns to his roots with the relaunch of his menswear label, the fashion community appears ready to embrace him once more. Fern Mallis, former head of The Council of Fashion Designers of America, affirmed his enduring relevance: "He's still as relevant as ever. And I think there's definitely a place for him in the market, he's got a wonderful following of fashionista friends. ... We'll be wearing it, posting it and writing about it."
