The humble duffel coat, once primarily associated with a beloved marmalade-loving bear, is enjoying a remarkable fashion renaissance this year, making prominent appearances everywhere from supermarket adverts to high-fashion campaigns.
Celebrity Endorsements Fuel Demand
This year's Waitrose Christmas advert features comedian Joe Wilkinson wearing a duffel coat alongside Keira Knightley in a mini romantic comedy. Meanwhile, Chelsea footballer Cole Palmer sported one in Burberry's 2024 campaign, while musician Tyler, the Creator wears a shorter version in his recent video for Darling, I. Not to be outdone, Paddington Bear continues to represent in his signature style in the West End production.
The trend is translating directly to consumer behaviour. John Lewis reports a 75% increase in duffel coat sales compared to last month, while searches for the style on resale platform Depop have surged by 159% over the past four months.
The Heritage Behind the Comeback
Despite being viewed as quintessentially British, the coat's name originates from Duffel, a town in Belgium where its characteristic thick fabric was first produced. The design was popularised by the British Royal Navy and became a symbol of heroism during the Second World War when worn by Field Marshal Bernard Law Montgomery, who became so linked with the coat it earned the nickname 'the Monty'.
Andrew Groves, director of the menswear archive at the University of Westminster, explains the coat's modern appeal. "Menswear is shifting back to garments with clear origins and unambiguous functionality," he argues. "[It] offers weight, insulation and a straightforwardness, which is what a lot of men want right now."
A Depop spokesperson confirms this aligns with a growing interest in "heritage fashion", noting that "traditional pieces that bring a touch of the countryside are increasingly being brought into street style."
Not Everyone is Convinced
Despite the coat's popularity, some fashion insiders remain sceptical. Teo van den Broeke, editor-in-chief of Esquire, believes duffels should stay with Paddington or in the playground. "There's something really infantilising about them," he says. "I really don't like seeing a grown adult in a duffel coat. I find it incredibly unsexy."
He does concede, however, that the coat's appeal lies in its functionality, heritage, and military background. Van den Broeke suggests the coat only works when subverted, typically by rock stars like Liam Gallagher and Alex Turner. "It's all about your attitude," he notes. "If you're a musician, and you look like you don't really care, then you could probably get away with it."
Ultimately, experts agree the duffel coat's status as a timeless classic is secure. "It's a classic because you can't really reinvent it," says Groves. "Whatever designers do to it, from Burberry to Prada, a duffel remains a duffel."
