A powerful new exhibition at the British Museum is reframing the history of Britain's encounter with the Pacific kingdom of Hawaii, moving beyond the violent death of Captain Cook to reveal a remarkable, if ultimately tragic, story of cross-cultural diplomacy and recognition.
Beyond the Fatal Shore: A Story of Two Monarchies
The fateful meeting between Britain and Hawaii began in conflict. On 14 February 1779, the explorer James Cook was killed at Kealakekua Bay in a dispute over a boat. While anthropologists still debate whether Cook was mistakenly seen as the god Lono, the exhibition, created with Hawaiian curators and community leaders, focuses on what happened next.
Cook's ghost lingers not in portraits or texts, but in the extraordinary objects his voyages brought to Britain. The display is a trove of miraculously preserved wonders: a Mahiole hulu manu (feathered helmet) used in battle and ceremony, fearsome god figures with mother-of-pearl eyes, and a club embedded with tiger shark teeth that perfectly blends artistry with menace.
Feathered Cloaks and Coronation Robes: Speaking the Language of Kings
The exhibition identifies monarchy as a common language between the two vastly different cultures. In 1810, seeking to establish Hawaii as a sovereign equal, King Kamehameha I sent a magnificent feathered cloak to King George III. The accompanying letter, while apologising that distance prevented military aid against Napoleon, requested British protection from France and affirmed friendship.
This stunning cloak, on loan from the Royal Collection, is displayed alongside George IV's glittering coronation costume, highlighting the unique ceremonial traditions of both nations. The narrative then follows the journey of King Liholiho and Queen Kamamulu, who in 1824 sailed to Britain, effectively reversing the earlier voyages of 'discovery'.
A Diplomatic Triumph and a Tragic End
Received with full honours by George IV, the Hawaiian royals were celebrated in London society. They visited the theatre and the British Museum itself, where they would have seen the feathered god images collected by Cook's crew. Their mission was a success: Hawaii persuaded Britain to recognise it as a legitimate nation-state, which likely deterred British colonial ambitions.
Tragically, this cultural diplomacy cost the king and queen their lives. Both succumbed to measles in London in 1824. George IV honoured them by returning their bodies to Hawaii on a Royal Navy ship. The exhibition poignantly notes that while Britain kept its distance, the United States later annexed Hawaii, making it the 50th state.
Far from being relics of a dead culture, these artefacts are presented as living embodiments of Hawaiian identity. A perfectly preserved 18th-century dance rattle ('uli'uli) is shown alongside video of contemporary dancers using modern recreations. The exhibition serves as both a celebration of Hawaiian artistry and a robust defence of museums' role in preserving and contextualising global collections. It reminds visitors that these beautiful objects, from feathered cloaks to shark-toothed clubs, remain powerful symbols in an ongoing story of cultural resilience.
Hawaii: A Kingdom Crossing Oceans is at the British Museum, London, from 15 January to 25 May.
