Nestled in the rolling hills of East Sussex, far from the urban clamour, lies Tillingham – a destination that transcends the label of mere restaurant. It is an experience, a pastoral dream woven from vines, woodsmoke, and culinary brilliance.
Guardian restaurant critic Grace Dent journeys to this Peasmarsh haven, leaving the capital's hustle for a taste of bucolic bliss. What she discovers is not just a meal, but a masterclass in modern British rustic charm.
From London Hustle to Sussex Serenity
The trip itself is part of the ritual. A slow train from London unveils the green expanse of the countryside, building anticipation for the feast to come. Arriving at Tillingham feels like stepping into another world—one of converted barns, sprawling vineyards, and the gentle hum of nature.
This is the vision of Ben Walgate, whose passion project has evolved into one of the UK's most exciting food and wine destinations. It’s a place where the line between farm and table isn't just blurred; it’s nonexistent.
A Menu Rooted in Earth and Fire
The heart of Tillingham beats in its open kitchen, where flames lick at custom grills and the air is thick with the scent of embers. Dent’s feast begins with a symphony of small plates that sing of the surrounding landscape.
Plump, briney oysters are swiftly followed by crispy lamb ribs, their fat rendered to perfection. A dazzlingly fresh heritage tomato salad bursts with summer, while silky chicken liver parfait arrives with the restaurant's own sourdough—a testament to their from-scratch philosophy.
But the true showstopper is the mutton chop. Cooked over those fierce flames, it arrives blushing pink, smoky, and profoundly flavorful—a dish Dent describes as worth the journey alone.
Natural Wines and Unforgettable Ambience
No visit to Tillingham is complete without exploring its natural wines, produced on-site from the very vineyards you dine beside. The list is an adventure, featuring skin-contact whites and vibrant reds that are as alive and unfiltered as the restaurant itself.
The ambience is effortlessly cool yet deeply comforting. Long communal tables encourage conversation, while the panoramic views of the Downs offer a breathtaking backdrop. It’s a setting that feels both special and unpretentious.
Verdict: A Culinary Pilgrimage Worth Making
Grace Dent’s conclusion is resounding: Tillingham is more than worth the effort. It represents a new gold standard for destination dining in the UK—a place where incredible, fire-kissed food, exceptional wine, and a magical setting converge.
It’s a reminder of the world-class culinary experiences that exist beyond London's orbit. For anyone seeking a genuine taste of the British countryside, a table at Tillingham awaits.
