In a stunning victory that has sent ripples through the nation's culinary scene, a modest Sydney pub helmed by seafood virtuoso Josh Niland has been crowned Australia's best restaurant. The Devonshire, an establishment that defiantly shuns fine dining pretence, has claimed the top spot in the prestigious Good Food Guide 2024, outshining the country's most lauded and expensive eateries.
The win is a testament to Niland's revolutionary approach to seafood, pioneered at his acclaimed restaurant Saint Peter. At The Devonshire, he applies his 'nose-to-tail' fish butchery philosophy to classic, comforting pub fare, creating a menu that is both genius and accessible.
From Fish Butcher to Publican: The Niland Revolution
Josh Niland is no stranger to awards, but this particular honour redefines his legacy. Moving from the white-tablecloth setting of Saint Peter to the convivial, relaxed atmosphere of a pub, Niland has democratised his extraordinary talent. The Devonshire's menu is a celebration of the unexpected, featuring dishes that elevate the humble pub meal into an art form.
The must-try creations include:
- The Prawn Toast Sanga: A glorious mess of prawn toast, cabbage, and kewpie mayo smashed between milk bread.
- The Fish Finger Roll: Far from its frozen ancestors, this roll features hapuka fish fingers, tartare sauce, and iceberg lettuce.
- Potato Cakes: Served with a decadent chicken parfait for dipping, redefining pub snacking.
- The 'Cheeseburger': A clever, show-stopping dish of smoked eel, mullet bacon, and cheese that has become an instant legend.
Melbourne's Finest: The Top Contenders
While Sydney claimed the crown, Melbourne's dynamic dining scene was powerfully represented in the guide's top five. The list showcases the diversity and strength of Australia's culinary capital.
Melbourne's top-rated restaurants for 2024 are:
- Gimlet at Cavendish House: Andrew McConnell's grand European brasserie, praised for its flawless execution and timeless glamour.
- Vue de Monde: Shannon Bennett's iconic fine-dining institution, continuing to deliver an unparalleled experiential journey atop the Rialto.
- Laura: A powerhouse of flavour in the CBD, offering a bold and inventive tasting menu.
- Ides: Peter Gunn's creative and ever-evolving culinary adventure in Collingwood.
The guide's results signal a significant shift in Australia's dining preferences. The top award going to a pub suggests a move towards exceptional quality in relaxed, welcoming environments over formal austerity. It celebrates chefs who prioritise flavour, innovation, and community, proving that the best meal in Australia might just be served with a pint in a classic pub setting.
For any food lover planning an Australian culinary pilgrimage, a detour to The Devonshire in Surry Hills is no longer a suggestion—it is an essential destination.
