SailLink, a largely wind-powered catamaran service, operates from Dover to Boulogne up to five times a week between April and mid-September, offering a meditative sailing experience that contrasts with traditional ferries. Helmsman Chris O’Brien describes it as “all about tuning into the culture of the sea,” noting that “people find the water, and the meditative experience of sailing, healing.” The catamaran can carry 12 passengers and allows bicycles on board, with customs officials checking documents on the boat to avoid terminal queues.
Journey and Onboard Experience
Passengers can participate in sailing, such as helping to haul the sails or steering. The four-to-five-hour crossing from Dover includes views of the white cliffs and opportunities to spot dolphins. On a calm, sunny day, the gentle motion of the boat creates a relaxing rhythm. Among the passengers, Paul and Caroline Docherty from York cycled from London to Kent and praised the experience, with Caroline saying, “I’m loving it.”
Exploring Boulogne-sur-Mer and the Coast
Boulogne-sur-Mer, France’s largest fishing port, is deeply shaped by the sea. Visitors can explore the Maison de la Beurière, a 19th-century fishing family home. Former museum head Jean-Pierre Ramet noted that the sea was both respected and feared, adding that “the arrival of the radio, with its scientific weather forecasts, prompted a huge decline in religion here.” From Boulogne, cyclists can follow the Vélomaritime cycle path to Cap Gris-Nez, passing Wimereux’s belle epoque villas and Ambleteuse’s beach, with views across the Channel to Kent.
Saint-Omer and the Audomarois Marshes
Inland, Saint-Omer offers the Boat’Om, a restored barge with four bedrooms and a kitchen, moored along the Canal de Neufossé. Owner Angélique Boulet transformed the barge from a nightclub into guest accommodation three years ago, aiming to help visitors disconnect. She explains, “We are in the city but all around us are peaceful marshes. You don’t realise that if you come by car, but by bike you feel it.” The Audomarois marshes, a Unesco biosphere reserve, can be explored by traditional bacôve boat. Guide Hippolyte Petit explains that monks and farmers dug canals to support market gardens, and France’s last postal boat service still operates here.
Traditional Boat-Building and Waterside Accommodation
Rémy Colin of Les Faiseurs de Bateaux, the last traditional boat-builders in the marshes, creates bacôves from oak. He notes that boat-building is difficult, and a sideline in boat trips and dining helps sustain the workshop. “We’re not just the last boat-builders but also the last boat-maintainers,” he says. “If we stop, they will disappear.” Deeper in the marshes, La Fermette de Marie Grouette is a waterside guesthouse accessible only by boat. Owner Muriel Richart provides a hamper supper with local cheeses, smoked fish, and salads, and guests can kayak in the marsh, observing moorhens, great crested grebes, and chiffchaffs.
Return Journey and Practical Information
The return crossing from Calais to Dover on a P&O ferry, the last foot passenger service on the route, offers a contrast to the sailing experience. One-way foot passenger fares on SailLink cost £85 per adult and £30 per child (last crossing 20 September), while P&O fares start from £30 in summer. Boat’Om rental starts from £250 per night for two, self-catering. Doubles at La Fermette de Marie Grouette start from €94 (£81), B&B.
