Ross-on-Wye: The Unassuming Birthplace of British Tourism
Nestled in a corner of Herefordshire where Gloucestershire meets Wales, Ross-on-Wye stands as an unassuming market town with a remarkable claim to fame. This picturesque location served as the inspiration behind Britain's first ever travel guide, sparking a tourism revolution in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
The Historic Roots of Tourism
In 1782, Reverend William Gilpin penned Observations on the River Wye, centered around a boat tour from Ross-on-Wye to Chepstow. This publication became Britain's inaugural travel guidebook, transforming the area into a fashionable holiday destination. During the Napoleonic Wars, when continental Grand Tours became impossible, visitors flocked to experience the 'picturesque' adventures along the River Wye.
Exploring the Town's Charm
With a population of approximately 11,000, Ross-on-Wye retains an old-world charm through its stunning black-and-white timber-framed buildings and independent shops. The town's High Street offers delightful culinary discoveries, though visitors should note that some establishments like Truffles Deli close on Sundays.
Maggie's Place provides a cosy alternative with locally sourced ingredients. The cafe's commitment to regional produce shines through in their sandwiches featuring ham from nearby delicatessens and locally baked bread. Their coffee, particularly the Cafe Au Lait, offers a rich, smooth experience that requires no added sugar.
Historic Accommodations and Views
The Royal Hotel, built on 13th-century Bishop's Palace foundations, offers commanding views of the River Wye. Two centuries ago, this establishment would have hosted travelers preparing for their boat tours. Nearby, The Prospect garden provides panoramic views of the famous horseshoe bend in the Wye and distant Black Mountains.
Culinary Excellence at Hope and Anchor
The Hope and Anchor Inn, while appearing as a cosy pub, delivers extraordinary culinary experiences. Their wine selection includes exceptional options like Vina Cerrada Rioja, while their menu features innovative dishes such as whipped camembert brulee with fig chutney and hazelnuts.
The garlic and thyme roasted supreme of chicken represents a masterpiece of British pub cuisine, featuring perfectly crispy roast potatoes, seasonal vegetables, and generous portions. Even children's meals receive artistic attention, with succulent battered chicken served alongside hand-cut chips.
The Waterlogged Reality
Despite historical significance, modern visitors face challenges when attempting to follow Gilpin's footsteps. The Museum Without Walls app provides augmented reality glimpses of historical boat preparations, but swollen river conditions and saturated paths often prevent completion of the traditional route.
During recent visits, waterlogged conditions made reaching even the first bridge impossible, despite determination to experience the historic journey. The fast-flowing river and saturated banks present safety concerns, particularly for families with young children.
Planning Your Visit
- The Hope & Anchor offers lunch, dinner, and overnight accommodations
- The Pavilion restaurant provides breakfast and cocktail masterclasses
- The Hut serves refreshments for riverside visitors
- Maggie's Place operates with varying hours throughout the week
- The Royal Hotel welcomes guests year-round with dog-friendly policies
While Ross-on-Wye's historical significance as the birthplace of British tourism remains undisputed, visitors should prepare for potential weather-related challenges when exploring its famous river paths. The town's charm, culinary excellence, and historical depth continue to draw travelers, even when the Wye's waters run high.
