If you find yourself ice-skating at Somerset House in central London before it closes on 11 January, first accept my commiserations. Then note that Poon’s, a Chinese restaurant by Amy Poon of the Poon’s dynasty, has opened in the New Wing. Far better to hide indoors with prawn wontons, ‘magic soup’, or wind-dried meat claypot rice.
The decor is utterly delightful: a dusky, muted salmon-pink, twinkly peach, womb-like space. Amy Poon hired a feng shui master to advise on the design. Wild rose tones, tasteful stencilled murals, embroidered benches and pretty crockery make the heart soar. A framed photo of Amy’s father Bill Poon, who earned a Michelin star for his Covent Garden restaurant in 1980, watches over proceedings.
The cooking is refreshingly light, delicate and wholesome. Crunchy house pickles are outstanding, and a bowl of crudites with a pungent, funky fermented tofu dip is worth booking a table for. Vegetarian potsticker dumplings have a sumptuous brown sear, and silken tofu with avocado and century egg is subtle and balm-like. White-cut poussin is poached perfectly, served with a spring onion, ginger and chilli relish. A claypot of stodgy rice with minced beef and a raw egg is mixed tableside.
One dish that didn’t impress was the duck salad, which felt drab with little duck or soy dressing and too much cabbage. But a trio of desserts called ‘Three Bites of Helen Goh’ restored equilibrium, featuring a goji berry financier, a chocolate truffle with ginger, and a slice of Asian pear. Poon’s also offers a £28 pre-theatre menu, and the Hong Kong milk punch with lemon vodka, Lillet rosé, black tea, guava, passion fruit and condensed milk is potent.
