If your festive plans include braving the temporary ice rink at Somerset House in central London, consider a far more appealing alternative. Nestled within the historic building's New Wing, Poon's, a new Chinese restaurant from Amy Poon, offers a warm, exquisite refuge from the seasonal chill.
A Sanctuary of Style and Heritage
Stepping into Poon's is an immediate sensory delight. The space is bathed in a dusky, muted salmon-pink hue—a twinkly peach tone so compelling that patrons may find themselves inquiring about the paint brand. The overall effect is womb-like and utterly calming, a design credited to the input of a feng shui master. Tasteful stencilled murals, embroidered benches, and beautiful crockery complete the elegant, feminine aesthetic.
A watchful presence over the room is a framed photograph of Bill Poon, Amy's father. A Hong Kong migrant, Bill Poon was the UK's first Chinese chef-restaurateur to earn a Michelin star in the 1980s. Amy Poon long worked in marketing, PR, and the arts before honouring her family's legacy with a pop-up in 2018, a wontoneria at Carousel, and a successful mail-order business for sauces and wind-dried meats.
Delicate, Refreshing Flavours Take Centre Stage
This is not merely a showcase for Poon's retail products. The cooking here is intentionally light, delicate, and wholesome, setting it apart from heavier, umami-rich Chinese cuisine. The meal begins triumphantly with outstanding house pickles and a bowl of crudités served with a pungent, funky fermented tofu dip. This dip is so moreish it alone justifies a reservation.
Other standout dishes include vegetarian potsticker dumplings with a perfect sear, silken tofu with avocado and century egg, and a masterfully poached white-cut poussin. A hearty claypot arrives filled with gloriously stodgy rice, minced beef, and a raw egg mixed in at the table. Even the richly named prawn toast, "The Hill That Amy Didn't Die On", retains a refined touch.
Practical Details and Final Verdict
Diners seeking value can opt for the £28 pre-theatre menu, ideal for a satisfying meal without post-dinner drowsiness—unless one indulges in the potent Hong Kong milk punch cocktail. The only noted misstep was a somewhat lacklustre duck salad. Balance is restored by a delicate dessert trio, "Three Bites of Helen Goh".
Poon's is open Tuesdays to Saturdays for lunch and dinner, with à la carte meals costing around £40 per head. It embodies a sweet, confident, and glamorous spirit, much like its founder. With the Somerset House ice rink closing on 11 January, Poon's offers a lasting reason to visit this iconic London location. It's a confident and compelling new chapter for a revered restaurant dynasty.
