If your festive plans involve braving the temporary ice rink at Somerset House in central London, consider a far more appealing alternative. Before the rink closes on 11 January, you could escape the seasonal slip-and-slide by retreating into the warm, peach-hued embrace of Poon's, the elegant new Chinese restaurant from Amy Poon.
A Space Designed for Serenity
Located in the New Wing of the iconic building, Poon's offers immediate refuge. The dining room is a "twinkly peach, womb-like space", painted in a dusky, muted salmon-pink that feels instinctively calming. The decor is no accident; Amy Poon enlisted a feng shui master to advise on the layout. The effect is enhanced by tasteful stencilled murals, embroidered benches, and beautifully crafted crockery. A framed photograph of Amy's father, Bill Poon, watches over the room—a nod to the family's culinary legacy. In the 1980s, Bill, a Hong Kong migrant, became the UK's first Chinese chef-restaurateur to earn a Michelin star.
Light, Delicate and Wholesome Flavours
The cooking at Poon's distinguishes itself by being refreshingly light, delicate, and wholesome. It is a deliberate departure from the family's other ventures, which include a shop and mail-order business for signature sauces and wind-dried meats. This is a romantic, elegant nook with the air of a sublime afternoon tea spot, albeit one serving sophisticated Chinese dishes.
The meal can begin spectacularly with house pickles, notable for their sharp, measured acidity, and a bowl of crudités served with a pungent, funky fermented tofu dip—a dish so good it alone justifies booking a table. Vegetarian potsticker dumplings boast a sumptuous brown sear and a mushy, well-seasoned filling, while silken tofu with avocado and century egg is subtle and balm-like.
Substantial Mains and a Pre-Theatre Bargain
Hearty yet refined main courses continue the theme. A plate of white-cut poussin is poached perfectly, served on the bone with skin intact, and accompanied by a zingy spring onion, ginger, and chilli relish. The beef claypot rice is a glorious, stodgy comfort dish, topped with minced beef and a raw egg mixed in at the table. For those with evening plans, the £28 pre-theatre menu offers excellent value and is designed to be satisfying without inducing drowsiness—though the Hong Kong milk punch with lemon vodka and condensed milk might challenge that resolve.
Not every dish hits the same high note; a duck salad was found to be somewhat drab, sparing with both duck and soy dressing. Balance is restored, however, by a delicate dessert trio named "Three Bites of Helen Goh", featuring a goji berry financier, a ginger chocolate truffle, and a slice of Asian pear.
Poon's at Somerset House is open Tuesdays to Saturdays for lunch (noon-4pm) and dinner (5-10.30pm). À la carte meals cost around £40 per head, plus drinks and service. The restaurant is a confident, glamorous addition to London's dining scene—much like Amy Poon herself—proving this restaurant dynasty's bones are far from weary.
