For the first time since the outbreak of the war in Gaza, pilgrims and tourists are tentatively returning to the ancient city of Nazareth, the childhood home of Jesus. The birthplace of Christianity is slowly re-awakening, with its famous Christmas market reopening to huge fanfare for the first time since 2022.
A Festive Reawakening in the Holy City
The cobbled streets of Nazareth now glisten with Christmas lights, and the sound of Jingle Bells in Arabic fills the air from giant speakers. Children in festive hats play near a Santa on stilts, while shop windows display ornaments and nativity scenes. A central symbol of the revival is the sparkling 100ft Christmas tree standing next to the Basilica of the Annunciation, believed to be one of the tallest in the Middle East.
Lana Shukha Nasir, a member of the Greek Orthodox council, was busy setting up the Christmas market. She proudly pointed out Mary's Well, noting its biblical significance. "Nazareth is very special and it's still the same as it was back in biblical times," she said, adding that the city has welcomed thousands of Israeli visitors during the coinciding Hanukkah festival, as well as many Eastern European pilgrims drawn by the Orthodox church.
A Cautious Return Brings Hope and Healing
The return of visitors brings a profound sense of hope to Nazareth, which is home to the biggest Arab-Christian community in Israel. The local economy relies heavily on tourism, which was painfully affected by the Hamas-Israel war. Maher, a florist in the square since 1992, is now selling handmade wreaths and mulled wine. "Last year we didn't put the big tree up because of the war. Celebrations were much smaller," he explained. "So far I haven't seen many tourists yet, but you can still feel the Christmas spirit today."
Official figures reflect this cautious recovery. Israel's tourism ministry expects around 40,000 Christian visitors this festive season, which is only about a third of the pre-war numbers. Several tour operators confirmed that most large-scale pilgrimages are not scheduled to restart fully until next year.
Personal Journeys and a Global Pull
Despite the lower numbers, the lights are back on, choirs are singing, and for some, the journey holds deep personal significance. Chris Pateman, a 72-year-old retired analyst from Surrey, embarked on an emotional pilgrimage after losing his wife to cancer four years ago. "My wife and I talked about coming to Jerusalem throughout our 40 years together, but it never happened," he shared. "This was the fulfilment of a lifetime ambition. Everything lived up to my expectations. This is where Jesus lived."
Andrew Kirk, who runs the UK-based organisation Generation 2 Generation, has been bringing Christian groups to Israel for two decades, even during the conflict. He notes a shift in sentiment: "Today, people are starting to feel more confident as tours are arriving again, many to show solidarity. We have had loads more enquiries from people all around the world." This renewed interest signals a tentative but hopeful step towards normalcy for the historic city, as it dares to celebrate Christmas once more.
