Peter Gilmore, the celebrated chef behind Sydney's Quay restaurant, is preparing to close its doors after 27 years. The restaurant, known for its modern Australian cuisine and iconic snow egg dessert, will shut on 14 February. Gilmore cites a 'triple whammy' of declining international diners, rising wages, and the cost-of-living crisis as reasons for the closure, despite the restaurant breaking even in recent years.
Gilmore's career has been defined by the snow egg, a meringue orb filled with custard apple ice-cream, which gained fame after appearing on MasterChef Australia in 2010. While some chefs might resent being tied to one dish, Gilmore takes pride in the recognition. 'I see myself as quite a sort of humble person,' he says. 'But there is a sense of pride in being acknowledged as doing something good.'
Growing up in suburban Sydney, Gilmore credits his mother for sparking his interest in food. She exposed him to Italian, Thai, and Chinese dishes in the 1970s, which was unusual at the time. He began his apprenticeship at 16 at Manor House in Balmain, where he met his wife, Kath. After a formative period in the UK, he became head chef at Quay at age 32, tasked with modernising the menu.
Gilmore's legacy extends beyond his dishes. He estimates having trained 60 chefs who have gone on to open their own restaurants. 'It's the people that I'm most proud of,' he says. As Quay prepares to close, Gilmore reflects on his career with humility, acknowledging the challenges of running a fine-dining restaurant in a changing economic landscape.
