In the heart of Hackney, a small, stripped-back, and family-run Korean restaurant named Miga offers a culinary experience that culminates in a truly happy ending. The star of the show is a bowl of seoleongtang, or ox bone broth, served after the mains. At first glance, this broth appears bland and pasty white, adorned only with sliced green tops of spring onion. However, one sip reveals its transformative power: the cares and worries of the outside world dissolve into silken elegance, discreetly gentle bovine depth, and a perky blast of pepper.
A Silent Feast of Pure Delight
Patrons often find themselves in utter silence, lost in joyous reverie as they spoon mouthful after mouthful of this pure liquid delight. Many eventually abandon their cutlery to slurp directly from the bowl, marvelling at how something so seemingly simple can be so damned good. While the ox bone broth alone is worth crossing town for, it would be a mistake to miss the rest of Miga's thrilling Korean cooking, which has been praised as some of the most exciting in years.
Minimalist Ambiance and Family Charm
The restaurant's room is unselfconsciously minimalist, featuring a vast, gleaming steel open kitchen. Here, the father mans the stove while various offspring, charming to a fault, run front of house. This family-run setup adds a warm, personal touch to the dining experience. Chef Vanessa Fernandes, of the renowned Mambow, is a frequent visitor who holds Miga in high regard, reflecting its growing popularity among food enthusiasts.
Exquisite Dishes with Freshness and Acidity
Miga's menu showcases a range of expertly crafted dishes. The yugwhe, or Korean beef tartare, is hand-chopped and lusciously rich, enhanced with an egg yolk and slivers of nashi pear. This classic dish offers a perfect balance of soft chew and crisp cool, scented with a whisper of sesame oil. Another standout is the bindeadgug, a dense, burnished mung-bean pancake stuffed with kimchee and beansprouts, served with a sharp soy vinaigrette. Despite its heft, it manages to be light and breezily vibrant.
For seafood lovers, three vast king prawns, cooked just the right side of translucent, wallow in a buttery, gently spicy gochujang sauce. The hwe dupbap presents a scarlet-stained jumble of pristine raw fish with radish, cucumber, and rice, accompanied by a hojang sauce that is sweet and tangy with a low rumble of heat. Every dish here exhibits a freshness and lightness of touch, along with a true understanding of the art of acidity.
Even Hearty Cuts Get a Lively Twist
Even pork belly, hardly the most lithe of cuts, is transformed with a creamy sauce that delivers a kick of mustard and a jolt of vinegar. Diners are also encouraged not to miss either of the kimchis: one a classic white cabbage version and the other made with whole baby cucumbers. To complement the meal, ice-cold Terra beer and deceptively strong Soju are popular drink choices.
A Fitting and Exquisite Finale
Ending on the ox bone broth, described as incandescently exquisite, seems a fitting conclusion to the meal. Patrons often leave on a heady high, having experienced a journey through bold flavours and comforting traditions. With prices around £45 per head, Miga offers an accessible yet memorable dining adventure at 1 Mare Street, London E8, with further details available on their website and Instagram.
Overall, Miga stands out as a beacon of thrilling Korean cooking in Hackney, blending family warmth with culinary excellence.
