The riad La Sultana, situated in the heart of the Kasbah and meticulously restored using traditional methods by skilled craftsmen, is truly fabulous. Five adjoining riads converge around a central swimming pool that also serves as the breakfast area. Its tranquil courtyards and dipping pools offer a serene escape from the bustling city beyond the imposing front doors. Rooms from £771, lasultanahotels.com.
Where to Eat
For a casual lunch, step out of the silk dyers' souk and down a small alleyway to discover the Museum of Mouassine Music (entry £3.50), housed in a beautifully preserved riad. While the museum is interesting, the real highlight is the rooftop café serving mint tea, delightful briouates (filo pastry parcels filled with goat's cheese, £10.50), and an authentic lamb tagine with preserved lemons (£15).
Exploring the Souks
The labyrinthine alleyways of the souks can be disorienting, so it's best to target specific areas rather than wandering aimlessly. Head to the spice souk for cumin, cinnamon sticks, and preserved lemons to take home; the blacksmith souk for metalwork such as pressed-tin mirrors and ornate lanterns; and, of course, the carpet souk is a must-see, with rugs easily shipped back if one catches your eye.
The Rooftop Bar
With its signature red-and-white-striped soft furnishings (one wonders where Shoreditch House got its inspiration), El Fenn is the perfect spot for a sundowner as the evening call to prayer echoes across the sky. After a day exploring the dusty Medina, it's an ideal place to unwind with a signature Hibiscus Ginger Margarita (£16) and delicious bar snacks (el-fenn.com).
The Garden
While queues for the iconic Jardin Majorelle, the former home of Yves Saint Laurent, can be lengthy, Le Jardin Secret offers equal beauty without the crowds. This tranquil botanical delight features elegant pavilions, a fresh spring, and striking Moorish architecture, all set against the backdrop of the distant Atlas Mountains (entry £8, lejardinsecretmarrakech.com).
The Restaurant
For a refreshing change from traditional hearty fare, Nomad serves light, zingy dishes with a Moroccan twist. The lentil salad with Essaouira goat's cheese and roasted beets, and the braised aubergine with mushroom, chickpea, and chermoula are both delightful. Regular pop-ups with famous visiting chefs and outstanding views across the souk from the roof make it essential to book (nomadmarrakech.com).
