Prague, a city steeped in history and artistic flair, continues to captivate visitors with its unique blend of preserved grandeur and contemporary vibrancy. Beyond the well-trodden paths of the historic centre, a deeper exploration reveals a destination where legendary hotels have been reborn, culinary scenes innovate on tradition, and provocative public art sparks conversation.
A Legacy of Luxury: The Alcron's Grand Return
Standing as a testament to the city's glamorous past, The Alcron hotel first opened its doors in 1932. For decades, its opulent marble staircase and art deco bar played host to an illustrious clientele, including figures like Winston Churchill, Charlie Chaplin, and Ella Fitzgerald. Remarkably, the building survived both the Nazi occupation and the subsequent communist era largely unscathed, as both regimes utilised it to house and impress visiting diplomats. It is even reported that during communist control, the hotel's ashtrays were bugged for surveillance.
After extensive renovations by the luxury boutique chain Almanac, this iconic property has been triumphantly revived. It reopened in 2023 as the Almanac x Alcron, seamlessly blending its historic character with modern luxury, with rooms now available from approximately £220 per night.
Art, Ale, and Authentic Neighbourhoods
Prague's cultural landscape offers contrasts as striking as its architecture. While the museum dedicated to art nouveau pioneer Alphonse Mucha is popular, the city's most memorable artworks are often the provocative public sculptures by David Černý. With more than 20 installations scattered across the city, they never fail to elicit a reaction. Visitors can encounter his faceless babies in Kampa Park, ponder the inverted statue of King Wenceslas on his horse, or admire the Spitfire-plane butterflies on the Maj department store. A must-see is his kinetic, rotating head of Franz Kafka, which draws a crowd on the hour.
For a truly authentic pub experience, bypass the tourist-focused Beer Spa and head to U Fleků. This establishment is not merely an old pub; it is a piece of living history, having operated since 1499. Here, waiters circulate with trays of its own light and dark beer (the dark is highly recommended), brewed on-site, while patrons share long wooden tables over traditional Czech fare.
Beyond the Tourist Centre
With over eight million annual visitors, Prague's First District can feel overwhelmingly crowded. To experience where locals live and unwind, a short tram ride (around £1 for 30 minutes) to the hipster district of Letná is essential. After exploring its independent shops and cafes, a stroll through Stromovka Park leads to the elegant, villa-lined streets of Bubeneč, offering a serene and residential counterpoint to the bustling centre.
When indulging in the city's famed sweet treats, the IF Café III, founded by pastry chef Iveta Fabesova, is the ultimate destination. Set on the edge of picturesque Kampa Park, it serves stunningly realistic and delicious creations, like its famous lemon-shaped cake, with slices starting from £4.50.
After enjoying classic Czech dishes, the vegetable-focused menu at the Alcron hotel's fine-dining restaurant provides a refined respite. Dishes such as a savoury parfait with white chocolate, hazelnuts, and apricot purée (£10.70) demonstrate a serious and ambitious culinary approach.
From its resilient historic hotels to its thought-provoking art and vibrant local districts, Prague masterfully honours its past while dynamically engaging with the present, ensuring its magic endures for every traveller.
