A prominent British baker based in Mexico City has issued a public apology after his blunt criticism of traditional Mexican bread ignited a fierce social media backlash and a national conversation about food and cultural identity.
'Ugly Rolls' Remark Sparks Fury
Richard Hart, co-founder of the Green Rhino bakery in the Mexican capital and a well-known figure in international baking circles, made the controversial comments on a food podcast. In the resurfaced audio, he stated that Mexicans "don't really have much of a bread culture," and described the ubiquitous white rolls used for sandwiches as "ugly" and cheaply made by industrial processes.
His remarks, which spread rapidly across Instagram, TikTok, and X, were met with sharp condemnation. Many Mexicans viewed his assessment as dismissive and deeply insulting to a staple of daily life. The incident quickly evolved from a culinary disagreement into a broader debate about who has the authority to define Mexican traditions, especially in a city experiencing tensions from an influx of foreign residents.
"He offended the community of bakers in Mexico and all the people in Mexico who like bread, which is almost everyone," said Daniela Delgado, a university student in Mexico City.
Defending a National Staple
Social media platforms were soon flooded with memes, reaction videos, and passionate defences of Mexico's bread heritage. Users celebrated everyday staples like the crusty bolillo, essential for tortas (sandwiches), and the sweet, iconic conchas found in neighbourhood bakeries (panaderías).
These simple breads are more than just food; they act as a unifying force across social classes and are deeply woven into the country's cultural fabric. While wheat bread was introduced during the colonial period, it evolved into a distinct national tradition, blending European techniques with local tastes.
For many, Hart's comments echoed wider frustrations about foreign chefs and restaurateurs receiving disproportionate prestige and contributing to gentrification. "Don't mess with the bolillo," warned one viral post on X, capturing the defiant mood.
Apology and Unresolved Tensions
As criticism mounted, Hart posted a public apology on Instagram on Friday 19 December 2025. He admitted his words were poorly phrased and showed a lack of respect for Mexico and its people, acknowledging he had not behaved as a respectful "guest."
"I made a mistake," Hart stated. "I regret it deeply." Representatives for the Green Rhino bakery, which caters largely to a middle and upper-class clientele with sourdough and European-style pastries, declined to comment when contacted by The Associated Press.
The apology did little to immediately quell the debate. While some accepted it, others felt it failed to address core concerns about cultural authority. "If you want to be part of Mexican culture by owning a restaurant or bakery, you have to educate yourself," Delgado emphasised.
However, some saw value in the controversy. Josué Martínez, a chef at the Mexican Culinary School, noted it opened the door for a more nuanced discussion. While Mexican bread has faced domestic criticism for industrialisation, Martínez argued such conversations are different when led by Mexicans themselves.
"It's an opportunity to learn about the culture of Mexican breadmaking and pastry, to take pride in it, to highlight the richness of our ingredients, and to stop thinking that the so-called first world represents the ultimate standard," Martínez said.
