Bali has long been sold as a tropical paradise, a haven for wellness seekers and digital nomads drawn by its lush jungles and spiritual allure. However, a former resident is now pulling back the Instagram-perfect filter to reveal a more complicated reality of life on the Indonesian island.
Ainura Kalau, who lived for nine months in the popular expat hub of Canggu with her husband, has shared a candid account of the challenges that ultimately drove them away. With Bali welcoming a staggering 16.4 million visitors in 2024 and a resident population of 4.2 million, Kalau's story highlights a growing dissonance between the dream and the daily grind for many foreigners.
The Practical Pitfalls of Island Life
According to Kalau, the dream began to crack with the island's 'exhausting' visa system. Most arrivals begin on a tourist visa requiring renewal every month or two. Even with the help of an agent or undertaking visa runs to nearby Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, the constant process becomes a significant burden.
'The uncertainty gets to you,' Kalau explained. 'You're never fully settled because you know your time is technically limited. It's hard to commit to anything long-term when your legal status feels temporary.'
Healthcare presents another serious concern. While minor ailments are easily treated, Kalau warned that more serious issues may require a costly medical evacuation. Recounting a friend's appendicitis scare, she revealed the local hospital was unequipped for the necessary surgery, forcing an emergency flight out. Insurance covering such evacuations is expensive, a cost many younger expats forego.
Environmental and Social Struggles
Despite Bali's reputation for natural beauty, Kalau says environmental challenges are increasingly hard to ignore. 'Bali has a serious trash problem,' she wrote, noting rubbish on roadsides, in rivers, and on beaches. The common practice of burning rubbish creates billows of smoke, which she claims led to her husband's sinus issues and her own persistent cough.
Socially, areas like Canggu, Seminyak, and Ubud have formed isolated bubbles. Kalau described these hubs as 'weird' and far removed from the rest of Indonesia, where cafes serve avocado toast to customers who never need to learn Indonesian. She also highlighted a stark wealth gap, where a villa's monthly rent can equal a local family's income for six months or more.
Friendships, while easy to make, often feel fragmented. The constant turnover of residents and tourists results in 'surface-level' connections. Kalau found it tiring how relationships often turned competitive, focused on who was travelling to the 'coolest places' or had the most 'enviable' social media profile.
The Hidden Costs and Emotional Toll
For digital nomads, Bali's infrastructure can be a major obstacle. Kalau reported regular power outages, forcing her and her husband to pay for two internet providers to maintain connectivity for work. Their villa had issues with mould, inconsistent water pressure, and flooding during heavy rains.
Contrary to its affordable reputation, Kalau found the cost of living comfortably in Bali to be surprisingly high. Expats typically desire nice villas, Western food, and reliable co-working spaces, which all add up. Once visas, comprehensive health insurance, and flights home were factored in, her savings began 'shrinking.' There was also a 'hidden cost' in frequently replacing items worn down by humidity and mould.
The final blow for the couple was the emotional toll. Kalau felt stuck between cultures—not a tourist, but not a true resident either. They missed important family events back home, from weddings to baby showers. 'By month seven, I started feeling lonely in a way that had nothing to do with the number of people around me,' she concluded. 'I missed having roots somewhere.'
