The launch of a new Marks & Spencer store in Clapham Common, south London, created an unexpected scene of retail pandemonium, with queues stretching down the entire high street. Journalist Zoe Williams documented the phenomenon, discovering that the appeal extended far beyond her own passion for the retailer's crisp combo mix.
More Than Just a Shop
Williams initially believed the opening would be significant mainly for snack aficionados like herself. However, she found the store mobbed by a diverse cross-section of Londoners. The so-called 'TikTok generation' was present, captivated by the new range of biscuits. Meanwhile, a contingent of health-conscious shoppers, dubbed the 'yoga-mat brigade', meticulously stalked every aisle in pairs.
A particularly mesmerised group consisted of local mothers, including Williams, who found themselves drawn to a wall of pre-mixed cocktails. This observation led to an insight from a friend's husband, who noted that middle-class concerns have shifted from alcohol and sugar to processing and palm oil.
A Retail Mystery in South London
The intense excitement surrounding the new outlet presents a geographical puzzle. There is already an M&S in Clapham Junction, less than a mile away, and another in Brixton, just a mile and a half distant. With such proximity to existing stores, the frenzy seems illogical from a purely practical standpoint.
This suggests the store's role transcends mere commerce. Williams proposes that the new M&S acts as a modern cathedral or a community gathering point. It serves as a moment for the community to collectively affirm its identity, a place to declare, finally: "We're people who deserve the best crisps."
