Colin the Caterpillar Fails Taste Test: Waitrose's Cecil Crowned Best Supermarket Cake
In a surprising blow to a British institution, Marks & Spencer's beloved Colin the Caterpillar cake has been ranked last in a comprehensive blind taste test conducted by the consumer group Which?. The iconic chocolate sponge cake, a staple at children's parties and adult celebrations for over three decades, was criticised for being "too dry" and lacking in flavour.
The Taste Test Results
Which? assembled a panel of 75 testers to evaluate chocolate caterpillar cakes from nine major UK supermarkets. Each cake was assessed on taste, texture, aroma, and appearance without the testers knowing which brand they were sampling. Despite its fame and celebrity endorsements from figures like David Beckham and Taylor Swift, Colin the Caterpillar scored a disappointing 64% overall, placing it at the bottom of the rankings.
Key criticisms included:
- 44% of testers found the sponge "too dry"
- 40% reported the chocolate flavour was "too weak"
- It contained the highest levels of sugar (46.3g per 100g) and fat (21.3g per 100g)
- Priced at £9.50, it was among the most expensive options tested
The Winning Contender
Waitrose's Cecil Chocolate Sponge Cake emerged as the clear winner, earning a Which? Best Buy rating with an impressive score of 78%. Priced at £9.50 like its M&S counterpart, Cecil offered better value by weight as the largest cake tested at 744g. Testers praised its "flavoursome thick chocolate shell" and "perfect" sponge-to-buttercream ratio, with 69% of the panel approving of this balance.
Other Notable Performers
Joint second place went to Co-op's Party Time Charlie Caterpillar Cake (£9.85) and Sainsbury's Wiggles the Caterpillar Cake (£8.50), both scoring 73%. The Co-op option impressed with its "spot on" chocolate flavour and rich buttercream, while Sainsbury's provided strong competition at a lower price point.
Iceland's Lewis and Green Caterpillar Celebration Cake received Which?'s "Great Value" endorsement at just £4.50. In a category where dryness was the primary complaint, Iceland's offering was praised for its surprising moistness, though it was the smallest cake tested at 530g with a thinner chocolate coating.
Industry Reactions
Natalie Hitchins, Which? Head of Home Products and Services, commented: "For many of us, a caterpillar cake is the ultimate nostalgia trip, but our test shows that you shouldn't let brand fame dictate your birthday budget. While M&S created the category, rivals like Waitrose and even budget-friendly Iceland are now delivering a better slice of the action."
Marks & Spencer defended their product, stating: "Colin the Caterpillar is the UK's number one caterpillar cake - over a million are sold every year. He has been named the nation's best caterpillar cake in an independent YouGov poll. Made and finished by hand in the UK for over 35 years, it leads the market on quality and taste."
The spokesperson added that M&S conducts regular blind taste tests against competitors and that Colin cakes "consistently come first" in these internal evaluations.
Historical Context
The caterpillar cake category has seen notable controversy in recent years, most famously in 2021 when Aldi's Cuthbert the Caterpillar Cake (£6.99) became involved in a high-profile legal dispute with M&S over alleged trademark infringement. This latest taste test suggests the competitive landscape continues to evolve, with traditional market leaders facing serious challenges from both premium and budget alternatives.
