When is a sausage not a sausage? That is the question now vexing European legislators, who are moving to ban plant-based products from using names like 'sausage' or 'burger'. This push, widely seen as a victory for the powerful meat and dairy lobby, claims to prevent consumer confusion, but critics argue it is pure protectionism.
The Literalist Crackdown on Food Language
Under proposed rules from the European Parliament, the term 'sausage' would be reserved solely for cylindrical objects containing meat. This is despite the fact that meat-free products like the Glamorgan sausage (selsig Morgannwg) have been sold under that name for at least 150 years. Similarly, 'burger' would also become a protected term for meat patties.
The rationale is consumer protection. Yet, a recent survey of 20,000 Dutch people found that 96% were not confused by terms like 'veggie burger' or 'vegan sausage'. This figure suggests the alleged confusion is minimal at best.
Selective Logic and Hypocritical Definitions
The legislative literalism is curiously selective. As Guardian columnist George Monbiot points out, no one is campaigning to rename mincemeat (which contains no meat), beef tomatoes (no beef), or buffalo wings (no buffalo).
"If a vegetarian hotdog is to be ruled out... the meat version should be ruled out on the grounds that it contains no dog," Monbiot notes wryly. The official EU definition of meat is already highly specific, referring to "edible parts of the animals" listed in Regulation (EC) No 853/2004.
Lobbying Power and Trade Implications
The driving force behind the move is not consumer interest but industry pressure. The meat and dairy lobbies have long campaigned to stifle competition from plant-based alternatives. This follows a historical pattern, such as the 19th-century US margarine bans pushed by the dairy industry.
Despite Brexit, the UK is likely to follow suit to protect trade agreements with the EU. Already, due to previous EU court rulings, terms like oat milk, soy butter, and vegan cheese are prohibited on UK labels. Notably, coconut milk and peanut butter remain legal, as they are not direct competitors to animal products.
Last week, the European Council and Commission failed to agree a common position with Parliament, pushing the final decision to January. The outcome could significantly hamper the plant-based sector by forcing products to use unfamiliar, potentially off-putting names, thereby protecting the interests of the traditional livestock industry.
