A Tale of Two Pubs: The Shaston Arms' Identity Crisis
Perched inside what felt like a repurposed bookshelf at the draughty rear of The Shaston Arms, waiting for a £16 plate of red mullet, one has ample time to ponder London's so-called 'pub revival'. This trend sees old boozers reclaimed and restored, with establishments like The Devonshire in Piccadilly leading the charge, garnering TikTok fame and celebrity endorsements. The Shaston Arms near Carnaby Street is a prime example of this phenomenon, attempting to be both an old-school pub and a cool, modern restaurant simultaneously.
The Sterile, Gen Z-Friendly Experience
Inside The Shaston Arms, the experience is pleasantly sterile and heavily Gen Z-friendly. The polished room features strategically placed rock'n'roll art and beers with quirky names on tap. The menu offers an imaginative mix, with dishes like fennel and escarole caponata with hazelnuts and caramel flan with miyagawa. It makes wry nods to classic pub comfort food with beef-fat onion rings with smoked cod's roe, merguez baguettes, and mashed potato topped with scallop.
Some cooking shows finesse, such as the delica squash with fontina and walnut salsa rosso, while other dishes, like the very salty bigoli with chanterelles and pecorino, are less successful. The creamy mash with a lightly spiced scallop and curry leaves was delicate, but the onion rings were whopping and not particularly crunchy, served with heavily smoked fish roe. The caramel tart suffered from an overdose of salted almonds and bitter citrus fruit, leading to the conclusion that just because you can do things doesn't mean you should.
Service Failings and a Chilly Reception
The fundamental issue at The Shaston Arms is its desire to be two things at once. While the food carries premium prices, the service in the restaurant was notably lacking. Staff failed to provide standard restaurant niceties such as checking if customers wanted another drink, changing cutlery between courses, or even making eye contact. Diners are left shivering next to a ringing reservations telephone, with the passing comment from a bartender that 'God, it's cold in the restaurant bit, isn't it?' highlighting the problem. The bread, costing £4.50 for a minuscule baguette with fridge-cold butter, epitomises the value issue.
The total bill came to £144, including a £16 service charge that felt laughable given the experience. This is a stark contrast to the celebrated Devonshire, which succeeds through well-trained staff and a dedicated dining area. The Shaston Arms demonstrates that achieving this balance requires significant effort and expense; without it, you're simply charging £4.50 for unsalted chips in an unheated lean-to.
The Shaston Arms is located at 4-6 Ganton Street, London W1. It is open for lunch Tuesday to Saturday from noon to 2:30pm and Sunday from noon to 4:30pm. Dinner is served Monday to Saturday from 5:30pm to 9:30pm. Expect to pay £35-£40 per head for three courses, plus drinks and service.
