Jamie Oliver's £27 Cottage Pie: The Absurd Element That Overshadowed the Price
Jamie Oliver, the celebrated British chef who has profoundly influenced the nation's culinary landscape for over two decades, recently opened a restaurant on Catherine Street in London. Promising British classics with a fine-dining twist, the establishment aims to reflect Oliver's journey from his parents' Essex pub to global fame. As someone in my mid-20s, I vividly recall Oliver's school meals crusade, which sparked mixed feelings among my peers. Recognising his enduring impact, I decided to visit his restaurant to sample his fare firsthand.
The Restaurant Ambiance and Philosophy
The venue, launched in 2023, boasts an unmistakably British aesthetic with impressive interior design across two distinct sections. Background music enhances the atmosphere at a comfortable volume, while staff members, particularly Pamela, are exceptionally warm and attentive. The restaurant's website emphasises that it is more than just a dining spot; it is a reflection of Oliver's culinary evolution, reimagining beloved British dishes.
Starters: Bread and Scotch Egg
We began with the bread and butter, priced at £5.50. The bread featured a light, stringy interior and a firm, crispy crust, though it was somewhat tough and chewy. The butter was easy to spread but lacked flavour. At roughly six slices, the portion was acceptable, though we felt bread should be complimentary or no more than £3. The undisputed star was the scotch egg with Stornoway black pudding, oozy Cacklebean egg, and mustard mayo. Generously sized and beautifully presented, it offered a rich, earthy flavour that paired perfectly with the mustard sauce. We scored it eight out of 10.
Mains: Fish and Chips vs. Cottage Pie
My companion opted for the £25 fish and chips, which included beer-battered hake, mushy peas, pickled wally and onion, curry sauce, and house chips. The fish was crisp, delicate, and well-seasoned, while the mushy peas provided a nice sharpness. However, the curry sauce was unappealing, and the chips were disappointingly cold. We rated this dish seven out of 10.
I selected the £27 cottage pie, described as containing beef shin, featherblade and aged rib ragù, mustard mash and bone marrow top, and red wine gravy. The initial mouthful was enjoyable, with velvety, rich mash and a crispy topping. Yet, it was overly salty, and the mustard flavour became overwhelming. The broccoli accompaniment was well-seasoned but served in large pieces.
The most absurd element was an enormous bone positioned centrally in the dish. The portion was already modest, and after discarding the bone, there was barely any meal remaining, which felt ludicrous for the price. While there were substantial chunks of meat—one tough and rubbery, the other succulent—the quantity was insufficient. This upmarket interpretation missed the mark, as cottage pie should be a satisfying, filling meal using economical ingredients. We rated it 4.5 out of 10.
Dessert and Overall Experience
We shared a £8 jammy sponge with custard, which had a peculiar consistency resembling sticky toffee pudding but with a plain steamed sponge and berry jam. The custard was pleasant though lumpy, and the jam was sharp and punchy. We scored it six out of 10.
Overall, I would rate the restaurant six out of 10. The staff were incredibly pleasant, checking on us multiple times without pressure. Beverages were somewhat costly, but we enjoyed a glass of white wine and toffee apple cider. The venue works well for both group outings and romantic evenings, though the cottage pie's absurd bone overshadowed the experience. I would return to try other menu options, but with caution regarding value for money.
