Baden-Baden 2006 Revisited: When WAGs and Journalists Shared a World Cup Hotel
As the countdown continues to this summer's World Cup, a new series delves behind the scenes of recent tournaments, uncovering untold stories from 2002 to 2022. The second installment focuses on the 2006 World Cup in Germany, where an unexpected convergence of England's WAGs and journalists created a media spectacle that overshadowed the team's on-pitch performance.
The Unplanned Convergence at Brenners Park Hotel
When a group of senior journalists from various national newspapers selected the Brenners Park Hotel and Spa in Baden-Baden as their base for covering England's 2006 World Cup campaign, they had no idea they would be sharing accommodations with the wives, girlfriends, and families of the England squad. According to its brochure, Brenners Park is "where nature, culture and wellbeing converge," but for three weeks in early summer two decades ago, it became where Victoria Beckham, Cheryl Cole, and numerous reporters converged.
The Football Association representative checking in the WAGs group looked aghast when discovering journalists would be staying at the same hotel. Initially, there were suggestions that reporters find alternative accommodation, but journalists laughed off the idea and settled into life alongside the WAGs. What followed was a surreal experience that would define England's 2006 World Cup narrative.
The Baden-Baden Media Circus
Stepping out of the hotel for a simple stroll or coffee in the genteel German retirement town meant encountering hordes of paparazzi. Cheryl Cole, Victoria Beckham, Coleen McLoughlin (now Rooney), Carly Zucker (Joe Cole's partner), Alex Curran, and Elen Rivas (Frank Lampard's first wife) were constantly out and about, providing endless photo opportunities for waiting photographers.
Meanwhile, inside Brenners Park Hotel, journalists and players' families learned to coexist—and even enjoy each other's company. Neville Neville, father of Gary and Phil, proved particularly entertaining company, though Gary was reportedly unhappy when photos emerged of his father in high spirits during a night out at Garibaldi's, the Italian restaurant that became the unofficial social hub for the WAGs.
The Footballing Context and Quarter-Final Heartbreak
The England players and management team, led by Sven-Goran Eriksson (whose partner Nancy Dell'Olio enthusiastically participated in the social scene), were based thirty minutes away at Schlosshotel Buhlerhohe in the Black Forest. They occasionally visited the circus that Baden-Baden had become, often looking nonplussed by the spectacle.
Gary Neville later reflected: "Elite sports teams should have no distraction. It was a World Cup. We had distractions like you would not believe. It was just a nonsense." To some extent, he was right—but the distractions extended beyond the WAG phenomenon.
Wayne Rooney had broken three metatarsals in his foot during an April match but joined the squad anyway. Legend has it that after being sent home for a scan, he returned declaring: "The big man is back." Unfortunately, the big man would be sent off in England's quarter-final against Portugal, with Eriksson's team losing on penalties after a goalless draw.
While much attention focused on Cristiano Ronaldo's infamous wink after Rooney's sending-off, England had been unconvincing throughout the tournament. Rooney had also suffered a minor groin tear during the competition, adding to what became a disappointing conclusion to David Beckham's tenure as England captain.
Garibaldi's: The Epicenter of WAG Culture
By Andy Lines' account, the WAG phenomenon extended far beyond the famous names. Alongside Alex Curran, Elen Rivas, Lisa Roughead (Michael Carrick's girlfriend), and Carly Zucker were Ashley Cole's mum, Gary and Phil Neville's dad, Eriksson's sons, David Beckham's sister Joanne, and most of Jamie Carragher's family, who had relocated from the nearby bar dubbed "The House of Scouse."
Garibaldi's became "WAGs Central" during the tournament, with journalists typically occupying the right side of the bar drinking beer while WAGs sipped champagne at tables on the left. The atmosphere was chaotic but generally good-natured, with one memorable incident involving a WAG complaining about a journalist and security being called—only for the bar owner to intervene and welcome the journalist back inside to cheers from the press pack.
As evenings progressed, WAGs and reporters would sing songs to each other, with Neville Neville particularly lively. Lisa Roughead even whispered "thanks" when a journalist started an "only one Michael Carrick" chant one evening.
The Abrupt End and Lasting Legacy
Everything came to a sudden halt when England was eliminated by Portugal on penalties. Returning despondently to Baden-Baden after the match, journalists encountered the head barman from Garibaldi's weeping uncontrollably in a hotel bar. When comforted, he explained: "The best three weeks of my life are over. Nothing like this will happen again."
The end of the Eriksson era had been announced earlier in the year, and after the quarter-final exit, journalists were summoned from their WAG hotel to a final England news conference where a tearful Beckham relinquished the captaincy. With Steve McClaren ready to begin his reign, the final days in Baden-Baden truly felt like the end of an era—or, as some would say, the end of an error.
While the WAG phenomenon cannot be blamed for England's exit, the 2006 campaign became more notable for the antics of Victoria, Coleen, Cheryl, Carly, and Alex than for their partners' performances. As Gary Neville observed, that was indeed a nonsense—but one that created lasting memories of a unique moment in football history.
