One of the UK's longest-held Michelin stars was at Morston Hall country house hotel, where the celebrated chef stayed on after selling the business. However, the relationship soured, leading to the departure of executive chef Galton Blackiston.
New owner's criticism
Hotel and real estate investor Henry Elworthy, who took over the 17th-century property in Blakeney, Norfolk, in April last year, accused Blackiston of acting like a 'child in the kitchen' and allowing food quality to decline after the sale. Elworthy claimed Blackiston lost interest and drove the kitchen downwards, with public reviews becoming 'awful' during the summer. They parted ways in November.
Supporters point to Michelin star retention
Supporters of Blackiston noted that the restaurant retained its Michelin star for the 27th consecutive year, just weeks before his departure. The venue also holds four AA Rosettes. A source said, 'He was there on the night of the Michelin inspection. That says everything.'
Financial struggles and staffing issues
Elworthy alleged the hotel and restaurant were 'struggling financially' when he took over, with revenue down 20% in the first quarter of last year. He also claimed Blackiston switched front-of-house staff to four-day contracts, increasing payroll costs by 20% due to overtime. Contracts reverted to five-day weeks in December.
New executive chef appointed
Phil Kearsey was brought in as executive chef in November, previously at Michelin-starred Pied a Terre in London. The current eight-course tasting menu costs £145, with wine flights at £95. Elworthy praised the new team, stating that guest feedback describes the food as the best in years.
Blackiston's background
Blackiston, who also owns an award-winning fish and chip shop in Cromer, co-owned and ran Morston Hall with his ex-wife Tracy since 1992. He declined to comment on the dispute. The property, built in 1640, was locally designated in 2019, leading to planning issues over a walk-in fridge installation in 2023.
