Former Vogue Editor Edward Enninful Challenges Magazine's 'First Brown Cover' Claim
Edward Enninful, the former editor-in-chief of British Vogue, has taken a public stand against the publication in a recent Instagram post. The British Ghanaian stylist, who made history as the first male and first black editor-in-chief of British Vogue, exited his role in March 2024 after six years. Now, he is directly challenging one of the magazine's recent assertions.
Disputing the 'First' Claim
The fashion bible unveiled its upcoming edition earlier this week, featuring Indian model Bhavitha Mandava on the cover. The publication claimed that this edition marked 'the first brown cover model to lead an issue of British Vogue solo.' Enninful, 53, was quick to suggest otherwise on Instagram, pointing to the selection of covers he curated during his reign at the publication.
Replying to a post repeating Vogue's claim, the editor and stylist wrote: 'In the haste to claim 'firsts' let's not forget the ones who came before and paved the way @saffron @simoneashley @jameelajamil @priyankachopra @malala.' Indeed, British-Indian model Saffron Vadher starred on the December 2018 cover of British Vogue, followed by Jameela Jamil in September 2019, and Malala in July 2021. One year later, Bridgerton star Simone Ashley was on the cover in December 2022, before Priyanka Chopra secured the cover in February 2023.
Support and Backlash
Supporters flocked to Enninful's comment section, with model Vadher writing: 'Forever paving the way.' A second wrote: 'Edward you did so much in such a short space of time.' Another added: 'How soon they forget…' This month's cover star, Mandava, who is originally from Hyderabad, India, was scouted on the New York subway in the summer of 2024. In the short time since, she has opened a Chanel show and worked for a string of other major designers.
Rivalry with Anna Wintour
It comes after Edward Enninful last year launched a 'magazine and platform' set to compete with former boss—and rumoured rival—Anna Wintour's Vogue. Wintour, 76, who started out as an editor at British Vogue, was the editor of American Vogue—the original edition of the title—since 1988 until last year. She now works as the global chief content officer and artist director at Vogue's parent company Condé Nast.
But as Enninful put his stamp on the British version of the so-called fashion 'Bible,' rumours of a 'power struggle' between him and Wintour began to swirl—before his departure from the magazine was announced at the start of 2024. Last year, after nearly 18 months out of the spotlight, Enninful announced his comeback with a quarterly print magazine, 72 (after his media company EE72)—and it may well deepen the reported rivalry that emerged between the two fashion publishing titans.
Enninful's New Venture
Enninful, who was appointed fashion director of the edgy i-D magazine at just 18, announced his new venture on Instagram just two days after the Met Gala—unquestionably the most important night in fashion, which Wintour has presided over for three decades. Describing the upcoming magazine as the 'cornerstone' of the entertainment company that he and his sister, Akua Enninful, founded in February of last year, he said: 'I've been waiting a while to announce this to my loyal followers. EE72 magazine and platform coming in September. Thank you for the continued support.'
In another post, he said: 'We've assembled the best-in-class teams to define and deliver boundary-breaking storytelling and content. We are so excited to share an editorial world that reflects the cultural shifts shaping today's landscape, and we can't wait to reveal more in the coming months!' By drawing emphasis to the 'cultural shifts shaping today's landscape' in his Instagram announcement, Enninful could have been making a thinly veiled reference to Wintour, who some believed was too slow in driving diversity at Vogue.
Diversity and Legacy
In an internal email in 2020, Wintour wrote: 'I want to say plainly that I know Vogue has not found enough ways to elevate and give space to black editors, writers, photographers, designers and other creators.' She admitted: 'We have made mistakes, too, publishing images or stories that have been hurtful or intolerant.' In September of that year, Enninful's British Vogue cover featured black activists Marcus Rashford and Adwoa Aboah.
During his six-year reign, the magazine featured a transgender model for the first time, and actor Timothée Chalamet was the first man on the cover. Another cover featured five disabled stars and was also released as a Braille edition. Enninful's 72 has had a warm reception from his 1.6 million followers and, importantly, his celebrity fans, including supermodel best pal Naomi Campbell, who posted her 'Congratulations' on Instagram.
Industry Reactions
Addressing the question on everyone's lips, The Telegraph reported that an insider said: 'Anna won't be threatened by this – she's Anna Wintour – but she'll be keeping a close eye.' The insider added that while Anna will 'understand why Edward wants to control his own narrative,' she will nevertheless see him as 'competition.' 'There are only so many A-listers who'll sell magazines these days, and it's naive to think they won't both be chasing the same names – or advertisers,' they pointed out.
While Enninful insisted his career at British Vogue ended 'how I wanted it to end'—his final issue was in March 2024—his tenure of just six years was very short compared to his predecessor Alexandra Shulman's 25 years. He said: 'It ended how I wanted it to end', speaking about his final days in the top job at British Vogue.
Power Struggle Rumours
Rumours began to fly last in 2023 that Enninful, who had openly expressed he'd like to take over from Wintour one day as global editorial director of Vogue, had been caught in a power-struggle with the fashion matriarch. At the time, a Vogue insider said: 'He made no secret of wanting the big job [global editorial director] but he hit the glass ceiling and he'd gone as far as he could go. He thought he would be in London for a few years and then head for New York, but he now knows that he's never going to get Anna's job at Condé Nast. Anna is the undisputed boss. She has seen off many rivals and continues to do so. She could swat him like a fly.' However, addressing the rumours head-on, Enninful said: 'I don't comment on gossip, I never have.'
