The Scalp Care Revolution: Why Experts Declare It Essential for Hair Health
Welcome to Polished with Elise Wilson, where Daily Mail's qualified makeup artist and hair stylist answers your questions, shares advice, and trials the up-and-coming beauty and skincare trends so you don't have to. For most of my adult life, I've treated my scalp like an afterthought. I'll be honest, I'm a greasy gal, so I've always been diligent about scrubbing it when it felt like an oil slick, then happily drowning it in dry shampoo when I couldn't be bothered dealing with it properly. What I didn't realise at the time was that this very approach was likely undoing all the money, effort and salon treatments I was pouring into my hair lengths month after month.
Scalp Care Emerges from the Shadows
Luckily for me (and my follicles), scalp care has officially stepped out of the shadows over the past year, with experts now declaring it the single most important factor in hair health. And according to the people shaping the future of beauty, this isn't just another TikTok-driven fad but more a long-overdue shift in how we treat the skin on our heads. The numbers back it up too, with scalp-care videos on TikTok viewed more than 2.6 billion times, while Google searches for terms like 'silicone scalp massager' have jumped 250 per cent in Australia alone over the past 12 months.
Australian retailer Adore Beauty has also reported a staggering 2,000 per cent surge in searches for scalp serums, alongside a rapid expansion of its scalp-health range to keep pace with demand. So, is scalp care genuinely necessary, or just another beauty trend designed to pad out our already busy routines and thin wallets? I went straight to the experts to get a clear answer. With beauty retailers reporting a staggering 2,000 per cent surge in searches for scalp-care products and TikTok's scalp-care videos reaching the billions, we can't ignore one of beauty's biggest booms.
Confusing Dry Scalp with Dandruff
Before reaching for treatment products, it's crucial to know what you're dealing with, and trichologist Eva Proudman told me that one of the biggest mistakes people make is confusing dry scalp with dandruff. Dry scalp flakes are typically smaller, drier and not accompanied by redness or inflammation, while dandruff often presents as larger flakes with irritation. She explained that dry scalp is frequently linked to dehydration, irritation or even infrequent washing, as sweat and natural oils can build up and trigger itching.
The fix involves gentler formulas, fewer irritants like synthetic ingredients, parabens and silicones, and better hydration, rather than aggressive anti-dandruff treatments. Eva also warned that hot showers, while soothing, can quietly sabotage scalp health. Excess heat strips natural oils, worsening dryness and itchiness, and slowing the scalp's ability to heal.
Treating Your Scalp Like Skin
Daniel Lopez, Head of Education at Oribe, explained that the scalp is the foundation from which hair grows, and when that environment is compromised, the impact shows up quickly. Irritation, inflammation, product build-up and microbial imbalance can all disrupt follicle function, leading to dryness, flaking, oil imbalance and weakened hair over time. This thinking is driving what industry insiders call the 'skinification' of haircare - a movement that treats the scalp with the same care, ingredients and science as facial skincare.
According to Amperna founder Kiri Yanchenko, ingredients once reserved for serums and moisturisers - like niacinamide, panthenol, peptides and ceramides – are becoming staples in scalp care, alongside microbiome-friendly systems designed to reduce irritation and support long-term balance. Jose Bryce Smith, founder of O&M, agrees that haircare routines now mirror skincare routines, moving through cleansing, exfoliating, treating, protecting and maintaining. It's less about harsh detergents and more about skin-grade actives that respect the scalp's 'natural ecosystem'.
How Salicylic Acid Can Help
One ingredient I found that kept coming up in expert conversations was salicylic acid – and for good reason. Unlike physical scrubs that can sometimes aggravate sensitive scalps (but which shouldn't be completely disregarded), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate through sebum and reach inside clogged follicles. Lopez explained that its keratolytic action breaks down the 'glue' holding dead skin cells together, lifting flakes, clearing product build-up and preventing scale from compacting around hair follicles.
This makes it particularly effective for dandruff, oily scalps and the frustrating 'greasy but flaky' paradox many people experience. By clearing congestion, salicylic acid also improves the performance of other active ingredients, essentially priming the scalp so treatments can actually do their job.
Other Things to Try
Start before the shower - Detox and exfoliation products used weekly can help reset the scalp, while gentle, barrier-supportive shampoos maintain balance day to day - but for dry, itchy skin, oils are a god-send. Twice a week, add a few drops of a pre-wash oil treatment directly to your scalp and massage in for 10-minutes before you shower. Leave overnight for a more intensive and soothing treatment.
Silicone scalp brushes - While the pros are cautious about claims they can stimulate hair growth, gentle use of a scalp brush can help lift dead skin, improve shampoo distribution and make cleansing more effective. If you're regularly massaging your scalp, you'll not only lift more dead skin and product build-up, but you'll effectively stimulate blood flow while helping those aforementioned skincare ingredients to absorb deeper. The key is light pressure and moderation – not aggressive scrubbing.
Scalp scrubs - The main function of a scalp scrub is exfoliation, which helps reduce the level of dead skin cells and debris around the hair follicles as well as excess sebum, which can be a cause of dandruff and irritation. If needed, use one once per week or fortnightly where needed for clearer, smoother texture on the hair shaft. If these feel too abrasive in sensitive skin-types, use a salicylic exfoliant instead when needed.
Add a treatment foam - For some that want a product that targets everything from psoriasis to excess oil, Dyson has just launched Amino™ - their first ever targeted scalp product. The lightweight foam leave-in treatment is designed to hydrate, protect and strengthen the scalp without leaving hair greasy or weighed down, using a skincare-style approach to barrier support. Powered by their very own Amino11™ blend, which combines farm-grown barley with 11 amino acids, the formula also includes niacinamide, ectoin and caffeine to support balance, hydration and strength at the roots.
Shower filters – It's not talked about much, but water minerals can build up on both hair and scalp, contributing to dryness, dullness and irritation. I grew up in the UK, so I know full well what 'hard' water can do to my kettle and pipes, so just imagine what this strain is causing for our poor skin and hair too. While filters aren't a miracle fix, many dermatologists say they can support scalp comfort over time, particularly for people who notice tightness or itching after washing. Just remember that filter cartridges need to be replaced every three months, which is an on-going cost, but the silky hair and skin results are worth it, trust me.
LED light therapy – I'm a huge fan of popping one of these on my face every night, but now LED masks have made the leap to hair growth helmets too. CurrentBody beauty tech expert Emily Buckwell explained that red and near-infrared light works to help improve blood flow, reducing inflammation and energising hair follicles. Yes, they're generally very expensive, but with consistent daily use over several months, LED can work to slow shedding and improve hair density, while also supporting overall scalp health.
That said, both dermatologists and trichologists I spoke to stressed that LED devices should be seen as supportive tools, not miracle cures. Persistent hair loss, inflammation or flaking should always be assessed by a medical professional before investing in expensive at-home devices.
Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are solely my own and do not reflect those of any brands or companies mentioned. This content is not sponsored or endorsed.
