Facing the brink of professional burnout, journalist Laura Hall discovered an unconventional but profoundly effective remedy: a year-long immersion in the icy waters of the Nordic seas. What began as a hesitant dip in Bergen harbour evolved into a life-changing journey across Scandinavia, Greenland, and Finland, fundamentally altering her perspective on wellbeing and resilience.
The Icy Plunge That Started It All
Standing on the edge of Bergen harbour on a cold winter's afternoon, with stars already visible in the darkening sky, Laura Hall faced a moment of decision. The wind whipped around her as she watched friends in the water, a hair's breadth from retreating. Taking that first plunge into the freezing harbour water was a pivotal moment. The cold was so intense it felt like burning, forcing a gasp for air and making the bones in her feet ache. The swim lasted less than sixty seconds, but the sensation of her skin tingling with life afterwards was unforgettable.
Warming up with hot chocolate in a nearby café, surrounded by other women with wet hair, Hall had an epiphany. Having recently left her job due to burnout, she had been searching for something to reignite her spirit. She turned to her friend and declared her intention: "I'm going to spend a year doing this. I've finally found what makes me feel alive. I'm going to spend a year swimming in the Nordic countries."
A Nordic Odyssey: From Copenhagen Pools to Arctic Seas
Returning to her home in Copenhagen, Hall began plotting a swimming route across the region. As a journalist covering Scandinavia, travel was straightforward; she simply packed her minimalist kit—a swimming costume, two towels, and an S-hook for her bag—alongside her work assignments. She reached out to a community of Scandinavian swimmers on social media, seeking companionship for her dips.
Her adventures took her to remarkable locations. She swam in the heated floating Allas Pool in Helsinki harbour. On assignment at the remote Arctic Hideaway in Norway, she braved a snowstorm to take a sauna and then plunge into a sea where orcas had recently been spotted, seeing purple sea urchins on the seabed below.
In Oslo, she swam solo in a harbour pool with views of the Oslofjord, later meeting champion freediver Siri, who shared awe-inspiring tales of diving with orcas. Throughout the year, Hall's confidence grew as she connected with a diverse community of dippers, including mermaid-costumed swimmers, whirlpool enthusiasts, and many who embraced the practice naked.
The Ultimate Test: Swimming Among Icebergs in Greenland
The true measure of her transformation came on the tiny island of Uunartoq in southern Greenland. There, with two icebergs the size of houses floating nearby, she stripped down and ran into the sea from a soft sandy beach. The water was piercingly cold, but the clarity was breathtaking, allowing her to see straight to the bottom. After a brief first dip, she ran up and down the beach to warm up so she could go in again. Afterwards, she rewarded herself by sinking into the island's 38°C natural hot spring.
Reflecting on her year of cold-water swimming, Hall states she learned profound lessons about her own capacity to handle difficult challenges. The regular, immersive connection with nature made her feel part of it, while the shared experience with like-minded people proved intoxicating. She started the year feeling burnt out and uncertain about her future in Scandinavia, but ended it with a renewed sense of belonging, having metaphorically gotten "a little saltwater in her veins."
Her journey is now chronicled in her book, 'The Year I Lay My Head in Water: Swimming Scandinavia in Search of a Better Life', published by Icon at £18.99.
