It's Veganuary, and while I might not have the energy for a vigorous celebration – blame it on a potential B12 deficit – I welcome the newcomers. This month traditionally brings a flurry of new plant-based products, from Aldi's vegan pains au chocolat to M&S coconut kefir, offering a retail therapy boost for those of us committed to eschewing animal products.
The Vegan Landscape Shifts: Closures and a 'Meat Revival'
However, the atmosphere feels muted. We are at a significant inflection point for vegan eating. Headlines ask "Where have all the vegans gone?" as a wave of vegan restaurant closures sweeps both the UK and the US. Notably, the Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park in New York reversed its fully vegan menu. Sales of meat substitutes are declining, and the percentage of people identifying as vegan remains stubbornly around 1%.
This trend coincides with what some call a 'roaring' meat revival, partly framed as a provocative pushback against 'woke' orthodoxies on carbon footprints and mindful consumption. Influential voices like US presidential candidate RFK Jr. champion this shift, promoting a dietary guideline pyramid that prioritises steak, much to the concern of health bodies like the American Heart Association, which warns of increased cardiovascular risks.
Wellness Trends and Climate Despair: The Challenges Stack Up
Other factors are also at play. The relentless focus on protein in wellness circles makes plant-based eating seem more challenging, despite it being entirely possible to meet protein needs. There is also valid scrutiny over ultra-processed foods (UPFs) prevalent in many meat and dairy alternatives. While it's possible to be vegan and avoid UPFs – it involves cooking from whole ingredients, a bit like a 1970s hippy – it requires more effort.
Perhaps more profoundly, I fear we are entering a 'shrug and give up' phase regarding climate action. When individuals feel their efforts are futile against the scale of corporate emissions, the motivation to make personal sacrifices, like dietary changes, wanes. The world feels overwhelmingly bleak, and the occasional buttery crumpet can feel like a necessary treat to cope.
Veganism as a Mental Health Imperative
My response to this is rooted in self-interest, specifically my mental health. In a world filled with horrors, from the ecological disaster of factory farming to documented animal cruelty, my veganism is a conscious, active choice. It is a small but tangible way to ward off feelings of impotence and despair. By not supporting these industries, I make a minute contribution to cutting emissions and reducing harm, which provides a crucial sense of agency.
And there are lighter notes on the horizon, like the new 'fibremaxxing' trend – an area where vegans naturally excel. So, I'll keep soaking my mung beans. This current dip in veganism's popularity may simply be a trough before the next peak. The core reasons for choosing a plant-based life – for the animals, the planet, and our own sense of wellbeing – remain as compelling as ever.
