Warmer weather patterns are reshaping drinking preferences across Europe, with consumers in both France and Britain increasingly opting for lighter, fruitier wine bottles. This notable shift has contributed to a measurable decline in red wine consumption, as palates adapt to the changing climate and evolving social trends.
Historic Adaptation Meets Modern Climate Pressures
The Bordeaux wine region has a long history of adapting to consumer demands. During the 1970s, the area predominantly focused on white wine production before transitioning to powerful, oak-aged reds that gained international fame in the 2000s. Now, the industry is returning to a much older style of red wine with a name deeply familiar to British drinkers: claret.
With origins tracing back to the 12th century when it was first shipped to Britain, claret became the favoured wine of the British market, serving as an unofficial synonym for Bordeaux reds. However, in recent decades, these wines have become increasingly full-bodied and robust.
Formal Validation of a New Category
The Bordeaux protected designation of origin has now formally validated bordeaux claret, linking it directly to the existing Bordeaux appellation. The bottles, which will be available from the 2025 vintage onwards, will differ significantly from what many British consumers traditionally associate with claret. These new offerings will be lighter in body, less tannic, and lower in alcohol content.
Stéphanie Sinoquet, managing director of the Bordeaux growers' association, acknowledged that climate breakdown has significantly affected the region. While some impacts present "positive challenges", producers are increasingly turning to untraditional, heat-resistant grape varieties. Warmer conditions are allowing grapes to achieve "better and more consistent ripeness", though this has led to concerns about ever-rising alcohol levels, with 15% alcohol content now becoming common.
Strategic Response to Environmental Shifts
For Jean-Raymond Clarenc, director of the Bordeaux branch of the Grands Chais de France, the new classification represents a "strategic response to these environmental shifts". He explained that by opting for shorter macerations and a profile that values freshness over power, producers can create balanced, elegant wines even in warmer vintages. "It's a way of turning a climatic challenge into an oenological opportunity," Clarenc noted.
Changing Consumption Habits and Market Realities
Wine consumption patterns are evolving for multiple reasons beyond just climate. Warmer weather means drinkers are actively seeking lighter, fruitier bottles, contributing to falling red wine consumption in both France and Britain. Lighter, chillable reds have become increasingly fashionable, with experts indicating that the new bordeaux claret is specifically designed to be consumed at temperatures between 8-12°C.
"Fresher and fruitier styles are perceived as more relaxed and inclusive," said Sinoquet, adding that these wines offer greater versatility and are easier to drink outside formal meal settings.
While lighter claret (and the even lighter clairet, a dark rosé style) never completely disappeared, Bordeaux producers had shifted their focus toward powerful reds that earned international acclaim and appealed to wealthy collectors, leading to soaring prices. "Classic bordeaux reds will continue to offer the structured, age-worthy styles," Sinoquet assured.
Market Challenges and Generational Shifts
Many industry observers cite Bordeaux's spiralling prices as a significant factor in the region's current struggles. Tony Laithwaite, founder of the wine retailer Laithwaites, stated bluntly: "A 50-year boom is over, vineyards are being abandoned, we've even ripped out a few plots ourselves." He pointed to collapsing demand in key markets including China, declining sales in France, and a noticeable swing toward white wine consumption. "Bordeaux's posh and pricey image just doesn't fit any more, in these times of straitened circumstances for everyone."
Jonathan Kleeman, a sommelier and wine consultant, observed that millennials are less likely to collect expensive wines than previous generations, preferring wines that are ready to drink immediately. "The new category is going to be interesting," Kleeman commented. "It actually harks back to the old days. Bordeaux didn't used to be the big wines they are today. It's actually bringing an old English term back."
Potential Confusion and Market Positioning
Could the revived term confuse contemporary drinkers? "Not really," Kleeman suggested, "these wines are aimed at younger generations who don't really use the word 'claret'." He cited other traditional wine styles that have become fashionable again, from pétillant naturel (or "pet-nat"), a traditional form of sparkling wine, to the use of amphorae, ceramic storing vessels popular with natural wine producers. "It could be a very good move, and people 'in the know' might like the irony of calling it 'claret'."
Today, Burgundy is widely considered the world's most expensive wine region. Will the new claret category align more closely with Burgundy's pinot noir reds? Sommelier Tom Claxton offered his perspective: "I don't think so. I think the similarities will be a lighter body, but I'd expect these to be more playful or 'fun' wines."
The formal recognition of bordeaux claret represents a significant moment in the wine industry's adaptation to both environmental changes and evolving consumer preferences. By embracing historical styles while addressing contemporary challenges, Bordeaux producers are attempting to navigate a complex landscape of climate pressure, market shifts, and generational drinking habits.
