Experts have raised concerns that excessive foraging for wild garlic and mushrooms is damaging fragile ecosystems in the UK, with some individuals taking too much and selling the goods commercially. The National Trust and Wildlife Trusts have reported instances of foragers stripping protected sites, including Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSIs), of edible plants and fungi.
While foraging can be a healthy and sustainable way to connect with nature, the trend has boomed in recent years, partly driven by top restaurants featuring foraged ingredients on their menus. However, the National Trust's head of nature conservation, Ben McCarthy, warned that excessive foraging removes nature and beauty from places, preventing others from enjoying them. He noted that commercial and unsustainable foraging has been observed in recent years.
The National Trust has issued a code of conduct for foragers on its land, advising people to pick only for personal consumption, take no more than one in 20 plants, and avoid protected species and SSSIs without consent. The Wildlife Trusts also encourage responsible foraging but have faced problems with over-harvesting. The Berkshire, Buckinghamshire & Oxfordshire Wildlife Trust (BBOWT) has banned mushroom picking on its reserves after groups were seen ripping up fungi on a commercial scale, suspected of selling to restaurants.
Despite these issues, some chefs promote sustainable foraging. Tommy Banks, a Michelin-starred chef, uses invasive species like sea buckthorn and Japanese knotweed, which he says helps ecosystems thrive. Jemima Jones, who runs Wild by Tart in London, forages with her children and incorporates wild garlic, nettles, and edible flowers into her dishes. Both emphasise the importance of responsible practices.
The Wildlife Trusts' director of landscape recovery, Rob Stoneman, urged foragers to leave plenty for wildlife, obtain landowner permission, and ensure they correctly identify plants to avoid dangerous mistakes. He described responsible foraging as a great way to reconnect with nature.
