Fuelled by social media and record tourism, demand for matcha is outstripping production in Japan, raising fears of a shortage. The powdered green tea, long a staple of Japanese culture, has become a global phenomenon, appearing in lattes, chocolates, ice-cream, and even savoury dishes like gyoza and ramen.
In Uji, near Kyoto, a town with deep historical ties to matcha, businesses are booming. At Chazuna, a park and museum dedicated to tea culture, matcha workshops are fully booked for two weeks, with 90% of participants from overseas. Director Naoto Sakayori noted a surge in interest since August last year, driven by tourists posting photos and videos online.
However, the global appetite is a double-edged sword. Reports of a shortage emerged last autumn, leading Kyoto tea companies to impose unprecedented purchase limits. While consumption in Japan is declining, demand in Europe, the US, and Australia is soaring. The global matcha market is expected to grow from $2.8bn in 2023 to $5bn by 2028.
Japan produced 4,176 tonnes of matcha in 2023, nearly three times the 2010 output, but it is still not enough. The government is reportedly planning subsidies to encourage growers to switch from traditional leaf tea to tencha, the leaf used for matcha. This year's harvest will temporarily replenish supplies, but overseas consumption reached a record high last year, according to Fumi Ueki of Ito En, a major tea company.
Tourists like Stephen Blackburn from New York have embraced matcha as a coffee alternative, praising its focus-enhancing effects. Others, like honeymooners Henrik and Tessa Hantel from Germany, remain unconvinced but are willing to give it another try in its traditional home.
