Vivienne Westwood Exhibition Showcases Lancashire Teacher's 30-Year Collection
A major fashion exhibition exploring the revolutionary work of Vivienne Westwood is drawing almost entirely from the private collection of Lancashire schoolteacher Peter Smithson, a dedicated fan since childhood. The exhibition, titled Vivienne Westwood: Rebel – Storyteller – Visionary, features over 40 ensembles and numerous accessories from Smithson's incredible 30-year accumulation, now on display at the Bowes Museum in Barnard Castle, County Durham.
From Childhood Admiration to Lifelong Passion
Peter Smithson, a chemistry teacher, recalls his early fascination with Westwood's designs. As a 10-year-old, he watched her being interviewed on Wogan and was confused by the audience's laughter at her models. "I couldn't understand why Sue Lawley and the audience were lampooning her. I was looking at the models thinking they were just fantastic looks," he said. His eureka moment came as a teenager in Manchester when he saw a man in a tartan suit from a Westwood shop, recognizing her as the designer he had long admired.
Smithson's wife, Belise, has always supported his collecting habit, even when receiving items like corsets from Japan or fur-trimmed knickers not meant for her. "No, she's never seen it as strange," Smithson explained. "She has never judged it. She gets it. She knows it is part and parcel of who I am."
A Celebration of Fearless Creativity
The exhibition showcases a blizzard of tartan tweed, dazzling harlequin prints, faux-fur coats, oversized velvet crowns, and mirrored fig-leaf tights. Smithson acknowledges these pieces might not be for everyone, but emphasizes their fun and innovative spirit. "I imagine it's fairly limited who's going to buy and wear one," he said. "But it's about fun. She comes up with an idea and it is about producing something that she enjoys."
Vicky Sturrs, director of programmes and collections at the Bowes Museum, described Westwood as one of "the most daring British designers in British history." She noted that Westwood, who moved to London at 17, "never lost her northern roots, and her fearless creativity still resonates powerfully with this region."
Breaking the Rules of Design
Rachel Whitworth, the fashion and textiles curator, highlighted how Westwood's designs were revolutionary not just in appearance but in construction. "She broke the rules of design, experimenting fearlessly with technique, proportion and historical reference," Whitworth said. "She drew from the past, created for the present and remained sharply conscious of the future."
Smithson, who has met Westwood on several occasions, found her to be "very welcoming, very humble, completely down to earth." He believes she "absolutely despised the global superstardom that surrounded her."
Inspiring Future Generations
Now a father of two boys, aged six and nine, Smithson hopes his collection will inspire the next generation of fashion designers. "My nine-year-old already has a very good eye for it," he said. The exhibition also includes loans from other private collections, Manchester Art Gallery, and Fashion Museum Bath, broadening its impact.
Often questioned about his obsession as a straight, married teacher who wears conventional clothes in the classroom, Smithson explains, "The answer is that I just felt a connection to her and her clothes from a very early age. When I saw her on Wogan, I looked at the models and they were just high on life … I wanted to experience that." Collecting Westwood has given him a "lifetime of pleasure," and he delights in seeing others enjoy his objects.
The exhibition runs from 28 March to 6 September, offering a unique glimpse into Westwood's legacy through the eyes of a devoted collector.
