The British food scene, once hailed as a global gastronomic powerhouse, is facing a crisis as a wave of Michelin-starred restaurant closures sweeps the nation. Celebrity chef Tom Kerridge, owner of the two-Michelin-starred Hand and Flowers in Marlow, has voiced deep concern over the industry's struggles, warning that the financial pressures are now unsustainable.
Kerridge, a regular on television, owns five fine dining pubs and restaurants, including Kerridge's Bar & Grill at the Corinthia Hotel in London. He stated that if a young chef approached him seeking advice on borrowing half a million pounds to open a restaurant in a small market town, he would strongly advise against it, reflecting the dire state of the sector.
The closures are not isolated. Since 2021, London has lost 24 of its 112 Michelin-starred restaurants, while more than 20% of Michelin-starred establishments in England and Wales (52 out of 240) have shut since the pandemic. In the first quarter of 2026 alone, three hospitality sites closed every day in the UK.
Richard Wilkins, chef of the now-closed Michelin-listed Restaurant 104 in west London, described the financial pressures as 'brutal'. Despite a five-figure refurbishment and increased marketing, he was forced to shut in April after seven years, citing rising costs and fatigue. 'We were very small, with only 12 covers. So when things like business rates or VAT rates change, it’s the smallest people who are hit the hardest,' he said.
Industry experts point to the end of pandemic-era relief measures as key factors. VAT returned to 20% in April 2022 after temporary reductions, and the 40% discount on business rates was fully abolished in April 2026. Kate Nicholls, chair of UK Hospitality, noted that menu prices have risen by 6%, but costs have increased by 8-12%, squeezing margins. 'Even busy, successful businesses have been pushed to the margins,' she said.
The downturn marks a stark reversal for the UK, which was once celebrated as a foodie capital. In 2011, French chef Joël Robuchon hailed London as the epicentre of innovative cuisine, and in 2018, The New York Times praised its culinary scene. Now, the rot is spreading, leaving many to wonder if the boom has gone bust for good.
