For travellers seeking a genuine escape, the scent of freshly baked bread in a remote fishing village can signal the start of a perfect holiday. This was the experience for one visitor to Principe, a tiny island in the Gulf of Guinea, who found solace from a tropical downpour in a local bakery, sharing in a simple, timeless pleasure. This moment encapsulates the unassuming charm of an island that remains one of West Africa's best-kept secrets.
A Caribbean Vibe Without the Crowds
Forming a nation with Sao Tome, Principe is notably more tranquil and relaxed than its larger counterpart. It boasts stunning, unspoiled sandy beaches that rival any Caribbean postcard, yet it has managed to stay largely under the radar of mass tourism. There are no international hotel chains, no glaring advertising billboards, and only a handful of basic shops in the sleepy main town of Santo António.
The island's history is etched into the landscape, with the ruins of Portuguese colonial sugar and cocoa plantations slowly being reclaimed by the jungle. Today, its residents have made a conscious choice for a different future. They have rejected lucrative palm oil projects in favour of ecotourism, guided by the pioneering sustainable enterprise HBD (Here Be Dragons).
The Vision Behind Sustainable Development
The story of HBD is unique. It was founded by entrepreneur Mark Shuttleworth, who made history in 2002 as the first African in space. Gazing down at Earth from orbit sparked an epiphany, and upon his return, he was determined to protect the planet. He initially saw Principe as a private investment but soon realised that sustainable tourism, managed with and for the local population, was the key.
His vision was to create jobs by opening the island to the world while fiercely protecting its natural core. HBD now manages three properties on Principe and recently acquired the only other operational hotel. Their model is proving that conservation and community can go hand-in-hand.
Experiencing a Time-Frozen Paradise
At the northern tip of the island lies Bom Bom, a former fishing lodge that was HBD's first hotel. This collection of smart but unassuming bungalows, with beaches facing both sunrise and sunset, has gained an accidental cult status. Recently reopened after a three-year pandemic closure, it offers a serene base.
Days begin early with empty beaches, where wooden pirogue boats dot the horizon. The island is a feast for nature lovers: western reef herons forage along the shore, and malachite kingfishers flash through emerald forests. The ocean is a clear, rich jade, with visibility reaching an astonishing 15 metres.
Getting to Principe is part of its preservation—a journey requiring a flight via Lisbon and Sao Tome. This very inaccessibility helps protect its timeless quality. Here are five compelling reasons to make the trip:
1. Pristine Rainforests: In 2012, the entire island and its islets were declared a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. Over half of the mountainous volcanic island is a protected natural park, home to endemic species in a rainforest believed to be 31 million years old.
2. Rich Marine Life: The surrounding waters are teeming. Humpback whales are visible between July and October, while five species of turtle nest on the beaches from November to March.
3. Delicious Chocolate: Reviving the island's cocoa heritage, HBD produces chocolate on a small scale at the historic Roca Sundy plantation, which is open to guests.
4. Heavenly Hiking: The interior offers excellent trails, including a popular hike to the summit of Pico do Papagaio (Parrot Peak).
5. A Model for Tourism: HBD is launching a Natural Dividend project to financially reward islanders for protecting local ecosystems—a model Mark Shuttleworth hopes can be replicated across Africa.
For those seeking a winter sun break that combines raw natural beauty with a genuine commitment to sustainability, Principe stands as a rare and remarkable destination, offering all the tranquility of a Caribbean holiday without the crowds.
