Just minutes from the gleaming towers of Canary Wharf lies a slice of London history, where a simple meal of fish and chips comes with a side of celebrity ownership and nearly half a millennium of stories. I finally visited The Grapes in Limehouse, a pub that has stood on the banks of the Thames since the 16th century and is now leased by acting legend Sir Ian McKellen.
A Portal to London's Past
Stepping off the busy streets, the warm glow from the pub's frosted windows was an immediate welcome. This establishment isn't just old; it's a living museum. Records show it was standing in 1587, when Sir Walter Raleigh's expedition to the New World set sail from a jetty practically outside its door. A century later, diarist Samuel Pepys wrote of visiting the same spot.
The literary connections deepen with Charles Dickens, who was a regular in the area and is believed to have featured The Grapes in his novel Our Mutual Friend. The pub honours this with a complete set of his books on display. The walls, adorned with oil paintings and watercolours, whisper of other famous patrons like Oscar Wilde, Arthur Conan Doyle, and painter Francis Bacon.
A Cosy Nook with a Celebrity Landlord
While its historical patrons are impressive, the current famous name linked to The Grapes is Sir Ian McKellen. The esteemed actor, a national treasure known globally as Gandalf, holds the lease. Arriving just before 6pm, I found the downstairs bar snug and bustling with no free seats. A hidden staircase behind the bar led to an intimate upstairs room, where I secured a table crafted from a large wooden barrel.
From this vantage point, the view shifted from the darkening waters of the Thames to the glittering Canary Wharf skyline. I placed my order: a classic pint of Guinness for £6.15 and the main event—fish and chips for £18.50. In a London pub of such beauty and pedigree, the price felt justified.
The £18.50 Fish and Chips Experience
The meal arrived with chunky chips, a generous scoop of mushy peas, and a standard side salad of rocket, cucumber, onion, and tomato. The review of the food itself is straightforward. It was thoroughly enjoyable without being spectacular. A notable positive was the complete lack of greasiness in the light batter and fish, leaving no unpleasant after-feeling.
The true magic of The Grapes, however, isn't found solely on the plate. It's in the atmosphere. The pub was busy enough to feel cosy and alive with conversation, yet not uncomfortably packed. It's a place that makes you feel happy, steeped in centuries of London life. In fact, my entire experience can be summed up in three simple words: gutted to leave.
For those seeking a meal wrapped in history, served in a venue owned by a British icon, The Grapes delivers an experience that far outweighs the cost of its supper.
