Finding the new Poon's restaurant in London's Somerset House is the first challenge, but the reward is a stunning new chapter in the city's Chinese dining scene. Nestled within the neoclassical maze of the iconic building, past ice rinks and exhibitions, the search for the understated entrance feels like a quest. Yet, those who persevere are met with an elegant, light-filled space that sets the stage for a remarkable meal.
A Legacy of Hospitality Reborn
Amy Poon, the restaurant's eponymous owner, comes from a legendary London hospitality dynasty. Her parents, Bill and Cecilia Poon, were the forces behind the famed Poon's restaurants on Lisle Street and in Covent Garden and the City, institutions that retired in 2003. Amy kept the flame alive during lockdown, crafting exceptional delivery dumplings and sauces that provided solace. Now, she has stepped into the spotlight with her own bricks-and-mortar establishment, and it is an undeniable triumph.
Culinary Deftness and Must-Try Dishes
The cooking at Poon's Somerset House is defined by a lightness of touch and culinary deftness that elevates every plate. The steamed pork neck fillet is a masterclass in texture and flavour, soft and silken with ginger and a resonant umami depth from shrimp paste. The so-called 'magic soup' lives up to its name, a pure, gentle broth designed to soothe and nourish with a mellow fruitfulness.
Other standout dishes include:
- Cold roast-duck salad: A light, lovely creation full of crunch and perfectly judged acidity.
- Sesame prawn toast ('The hill that Amy didn't die on'): Expertly fried to a gossamer lightness.
- House-made sausage roll: Featuring wind-dried sausage in burnished, flaky pastry.
- Prawn dumplings: Pert and packed with a kick of chilli and Sichuan pepper.
- Claypot rice: Topped with hand-chopped beef and a raw egg, complete with a coveted brittle crust.
A Complete and Satisfying Experience
The experience is rounded out by an interesting, well-priced wine list and a selection of amazing teas. Service is both smart and smiling, completing the picture of a polished operation. With prices around £40 per head, Poon's offers refined dining without pretence.
In short, Amy Poon has not only honoured her family's legacy but has definitively built upon it. Poon's at Somerset House is a new modern Chinese classic, proving that the Poons' magic touch for creating exceptional London restaurants is very much alive and well.
