Piedmont's Alpine-Inspired Wines for Cosy Nights
As the temperature drops and Big Coat weather arrives, our culinary desires naturally shift towards comforting, earthy flavours. Think smoky charred vegetables, rich stews, hearty sausages, and dishes celebrating the humble mushroom. For these autumnal cravings, the red wines from Piedmont in north-west Italy offer the perfect companion.
While this renowned region produces a variety of styles, including the crisp white Gavi di Gavi and the sweet, fizzy moscato d'Asti, it is the alluring reds that truly capture the essence of the season. The name Piedmont itself, meaning 'the foot of the mountain', hints at its defining geography nestled near the Alps, which profoundly shapes its viticulture.
The Noble Grapes of Piedmont
Perhaps the most celebrated red grape here is Nebbiolo, often compared to Pinot Noir due to its difficulty to cultivate and susceptibility to disease. Like its French counterpart, it can appear light in colour but delivers an expressive and complex bouquet. Many detect a distinct scent of rose petals that seems to leap from the glass. The name Nebbiolo derives from the Italian word for fog, nebbia, a common sight in the region's hills during winter. This prestigious grape forms 100% of the globally acclaimed Barolo and Barbaresco wines.
Another key player is Barbera, the most widely planted grape in Piedmont. Iconic examples are found around the areas of Asti and Alba. Barbera is fully capable of producing elegant, earthy, and age-worthy wines, yet it often plays second fiddle to Nebbiolo. This status, however, makes it a more affordable option for wine lovers.
Even more under-appreciated is the Dolcetto grape. Typically enjoyed young due to its lower acidity and alcohol content, Dolcetto is not generally considered for long ageing. Its finely meshed tannic structure, however, makes it an exceptionally food-friendly choice.
Perfect Food Pairings for Piedmont Reds
To understand the ideal culinary matches, we turned to an expert. Liam Colucci of Raeburn Fine Wines, who is both Italian and a connoisseur of fine wine, shared his insights. 'Piemonte is blessed with perfect hazelnuts, truffles and mushrooms, and it's as if the local wine is made for such dishes,' he noted.
Colucci recommends pairing a Barolo with agnolotti pasta filled with guinea fowl, accompanied by fresh ceps and a glossy, reduced stock sauce. For Barbera, he suggests an electric pairing with vitello tonnato, where the wine's acidity complements the dish perfectly.
Four Piedmont Reds to Try This Autumn
Here are four excellent examples to seek out:
M&S Araldica Barbera d'Asti (£9.50, Ocado, 14.5%): Oak ageing adds spice to complement the fruity cherry notes. This wine is made by a cooperative in Asti working with 230 growers.
GD Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba (£16, The Wine Society, 12%): This wine offers a core of blue fruit with a graphite coolness.
Il Poeta Barolo (£22, Laithwaites, 14%): A perfumed and aromatic Barolo that represents excellent value for this celebrated wine.
Cantina del Nebbiolo Nebbiolo d'Alba (£14, Waitrose, 14.5%): A smoky, spicy, and plummy wine made from 100% Nebbiolo, ideal for the coming colder months.
Despite their international fame, it's worth noting that Piedmont's wines constitute less than 5% of Italy's total production. High demand often means prices start a little higher, but the experience is undoubtedly worth the investment for those seeking depth and complexity in their glass.
