Lake Skadar, the largest lake in the Balkans, is a shallow turquoise basin of lily pads and reed beds that opens out into a vast expanse. Its shores are herded by steep, domed hills of lush green. Pelicans, kingfishers and cormorants glide across the tranquil waters or dive sleekly into its depths. The train to Belgrade, renowned as one of the most scenic routes on the continent, rumbles across a bridge over a narrowing of the lake, with brightly coloured communist-era engines and carriages still in use.
Virpazar: Gateway to Lake Skadar
Among the most charming villages on the lake is Virpazar, which has become a popular point of embarkation for tourists wishing to explore Skadar. Visitors come to the village over a narrow stone bridge crossing one of the sleepy streams that feeds the lake. Two long rows of fishing and tourist boats are moored at either bank. A clutch of stone houses hold tight to the dusty roadside.
In one of these, Virpazar native Sara Jovićević, 40, runs a French-style café called Virparis, which she opened a year ago. From here, she offers coffee, a huge homemade croissant and a two-hour tour of the lake aboard a bamboo-canopied boat for €20 per person. According to Jovićević, this is among the best ways to spend €20 in the whole of Europe.
The Boat Tour Experience
The tour starts with a trundle through high-grown reeds as the river meanders from Virpazar to the lake. The scenery is reminiscent of the Floridian Everglades, especially with a strong sun beating down on the shallow waters. Watch for kingfishers flashing blue in the reeds and the golden flecks of goosanders paddling by. Once out on the lake, visitors see endless fields of yellow waterlilies, misty mountains in the distance, and islets where no person sets foot, while enjoying the gentle lapping of clear green waters.
Dining at Besac Fortress
After the tour, hungry travellers can head to the restored Besac Fortress, set on a hill overlooking Virpazar. The fort is now a restaurant with an extensive local wine cellar and a small exhibition on local wines. The fortress’s lookout tower offers panoramic views of Virpazar and Lake Skadar. The restaurant has a popular sun terrace and a cool, dark interior. Try the fried carp, prepared in a thin, creamy batter, served with Illyrian stew (boiled potatoes, chard and garlic).
Travel Information
British Airways flies from London Heathrow to Tivat from £172 return per person, including taxes and carrier fees. Stay at the One & Only Portonovi from £245 per night, or the Iberostar Waves Slavija from £80 per night. For more information, visit montenegro.travel.
