Renowned traveller Jason Cranwell recently discovered that Edinburgh, a city celebrated globally for its profound history and culture, offers far more than just picturesque vistas. His two-day autumnal visit revealed a destination pulsating with spiritual energy, world-class whisky, and culinary excellence that left him utterly captivated.
A Whisky Revelation on Princes Street
As a self-confessed 'Peroni guy', Jason Cranwell never considered himself a whisky enthusiast. That all changed at the Johnnie Walker Experience on Princes Street, a venue that demanded he expand his horizons. After answering questions about his palate, he was soon tentatively sipping his first tailored sample.
He described the journey from finding the first sip 'decent' to being amazed by a third, 'a celestial cocktail creation whose recipe is now committed to memory in perpetuity'. The £150 million immersive experience, guided by the 'genius' storyteller Evie, features polished 360-degree wall displays and striking LED installations. Jason remarked that opening your eyes revealed a 'Whisky Wonka' capable of captivating anyone.
Delving Deep into Edinburgh's Historic Heart
Beyond the modern sensory experience, Jason explored the city's darker history at The Real Mary King's Close. This subterranean maze of 17th-century homes, located off the Royal Mile, remains remarkably intact. For an hour, tour guide Makenzi, embodying an ancient servant, led an expedition through tales of plagues and air raid shelters, bringing a pivotal era of Scottish history vividly to life.
Culinary Excellence from Italy to Leith
Edinburgh's vibrant food scene provided a swift change of pace. Jason's group visited Valvona & Crolla, a classic Italian delicatessen founded in 1934 by Alfonso Crolla and now run by his great-granddaughter Olivia. What appears to be a narrow family shop unfolds into multiple sections filled with delectable cheeses and an extensive collection of personally-selected wines.
Upstairs, a restaurant hosted a diverse mix of diners enjoying antipasti, panatella, and pasta, which could be paired with a highly recommended £38 wine-tasting session hosted by the in-house sommelier. Further down Leith Walk, the trendier pop-up seafood restaurant Plaice at ASKR on Constitution Street offered a menu of healthy options. Jason enjoyed peri-peri tiger prawns on oyster-buttered sourdough, followed by a main of British bluefin tuna served Japanese-style in sesame oil.
Award-Winning Accommodation and Acclaim
For his stay, Jason checked into the Moxy Edinburgh Fountainbridge, conveniently located a 15-minute walk from Haymarket station. The hotel's pièce de résistance is the sixth-floor Lochrin Rooftop Bar, crowned Hotel Bar of the Year at the 2024 Scottish Bar and Pub Awards.
This autumnal excellence hasn't gone unnoticed. The Times hailed Edinburgh as one of the 'best places for an autumn city break' earlier in 2024, the only UK location to receive this accolade. They praised its 'snug restaurants, historic hotels and warming whiskies' that improve in the cooler months. Furthermore, TimeOut has consistently ranked Edinburgh among the top 53 cities worldwide, highlighting its 'ever-evolving selection of forward-thinking bars and eateries'.
After his whirlwind tour of history, flavour, and innovation, Jason Cranwell's conclusion was simple and heartfelt: 'Oh, Edinburgh, I think I'm smitten.'
