From Family Adventure to Solo Exploration
Renowned Scottish historian and travel writer William Dalrymple has returned to the magnificent Angkor Wat temple complex in Cambodia, revisiting the site that left an indelible mark on his family nearly three decades earlier. His first visit in 1994 came shortly after the area's liberation from the Khmer Rouge, when he ventured there with his wife and three young children, all under eight years old.
A Cambodia Transformed
Dalrymple's initial experience occurred during Cambodia's early days of modern tourism development. The family were among the first guests at the newly-opened Aman Resort in Siem Reap, close to the recently established airport. What struck him most profoundly was the sheer magnificence of the Hindu temple complex, which he describes as "one of the richest archaeological landscapes and perfect ruined wonders anywhere in the world."
The scale of Angkor Wat astonished him, covering an area approximately four times larger than Vatican City. Dating back to the 12th century during the Khmer Empire's dominance over Cambodia and neighbouring Laos, Vietnam, and Thailand, the complex represents an extraordinary archaeological achievement.
Memories of Danger and Wonder
Beyond the architectural marvels, Dalrymple recalls encounters with Cambodia's wildlife in the lush green surroundings. Geckos and snakes provided excitement for the family, appearing close enough to be thrilling yet distant enough to avoid causing fear. The sounds of the jungle at night created what he describes as a magical experience.
However, darker memories of the Khmer Rouge era surfaced during a family trip to Siem Reap's zoo. Dalrymple hadn't realised that the regime had fed numerous people to crocodiles at that very location. Standing with his children on the viewing platform, he noticed the reptiles eyeing them hungrily, as if anticipating "fresh young meat." Thankfully, the crocodiles remained disappointed.
Angkor Wat Today
During his recent solo visit to research his latest book, Dalrymple found Angkor Wat transformed. The site now attracts backpackers and newly-wealthy Chinese travellers, though his post-pandemic timing meant quieter conditions than usual. Without children in tow, he could explore the temple sites more thoroughly and indulge in Cambodian cuisine, which he considers superior to its Thai cousin.
He particularly recommends traditional noodle soups like Ka Tieu, a breakfast staple and national comfort food. For adventurous travellers, he suggests spending a week exploring not just Angkor Wat but other temple complexes within a three-to-four hour drive. These areas, once inaccessible due to landmines in the 1990s, now offer incredible jungle exploration opportunities for those willing to travel by motorbike.
Reflecting on his parenting choices, Dalrymple acknowledges possible shortcomings but takes pride in exposing his children to remarkable places during their formative years. Of all their childhood travels, Angkor Wat remains their most vivid memory - a testament to the site's enduring power to captivate visitors across generations.
William Dalrymple's book 'The Golden Road' is now available in paperback for £12.99, with an audiobook version also released.
