Finding Peace: A Buddhist Retreat on Ireland's Beara Peninsula
On a bright Saturday in March, my mother and I discovered profound solace within the floor-to-ceiling windows of a cottage at Dzogchen Beara. This remarkable Tibetan Buddhist retreat centre is dramatically perched upon the magnificent cliffs of the Beara Peninsula in Ireland, offering uninterrupted views of the vast Atlantic Ocean.
A Journey to Tranquility
Our drive along the stunning coastline from Bantry was continuously illuminated by sunshine, a journey that gradually soothed my mother's initial trepidation about visiting a Buddhist retreat for the very first time. Upon arrival, we were immediately struck by the breathtaking vista, our conversations naturally trailing into silence as the majestic seascape commanded our full attention.
We shared this serene environment with a diverse group: a few travellers from across Europe, Irish Buddhists engaged in long-term stays, and a contented couple with whom we exchanged warm smiles in the peaceful meditation garden. The centre operates under the spiritual guidance of Sogyal Rinpoche, the renowned Tibetan Buddhist teacher and author of The Tibetan Book of Living and Dying.
The Practice of Meditation with a View
By reading excerpts from this influential text to my mother, I managed to persuade her to attend her first guided meditation session. These sessions are offered freely twice daily to all visitors. The shrine room itself is an architectural marvel, surrounded by three giant walls of glass.
From any position on the meditation cushions, one can gaze out to the endless sea. I discovered that in Tibetan Buddhist practice, meditators keep their eyes open, allowing me to surrender completely to the panoramic view for forty-five minutes. My mother, opting for a chair, focused attentively on the gentle cadence of the teacher's voice. She later confessed that a fidgety neighbour prevented her from fully switching off, yet she felt a genuine sense of pride for having made the attempt.
Simple Pleasures and Spectacular Sunsets
Later, we ventured down to O'Neill's pub in the tiny town of Allihies. There, we enjoyed a simple meal of warmed tinned tomato soup with remarkably soft white bread. The friendly owner and the opportunity to dine outdoors made this humble fare perfectly satisfying.
Returning to Dzogchen Beara, we were determined to witness the sunset despite a dusk plagued by midges. The sky transformed into a breathtaking mix of lavender and orange. We contemplated an evening walk but found ourselves utterly transfixed, remaining in place to absorb the final moments of the day's light.
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