Discovering Colorado's Luxurious Mountain Escapes
A travel writer's journey to Aspen and Snowmass in Colorado's Rocky Mountains reveals a world of breathtaking alpine vistas, rich cowboy heritage, and opulent summer adventures. This region, famed for its skiing, transforms into a paradise for explorers when the snow melts, offering a unique blend of natural beauty and affluent culture.
The Arrival: A Glimpse into Extreme Wealth
Flying into Denver and onward to Aspen, the writer was immediately struck by the rows of private aircraft at the tiny Aspen airport. This area is among the wealthiest in the United States, with reports indicating up to 125 billionaires owning homes here. The atmosphere is reminiscent of exclusive destinations like the south of France or Dubai, but infused with a distinct ranch culture that sets it apart.
Accommodation and First Impressions
Staying at the stylish W Hotel in Aspen, located near the cable car terminal, the writer found it contemporary and intimate. The rooftop terrace provided a perfect spot for cocktails as the sun set over Mount Aspen. Despite the town's charming, tree-lined streets, little evidence remains of its rough silver mining past, which faded after the boom collapsed and only revived with the rise of skiing in the mid-20th century.
The high altitude of 8,000 feet posed an initial challenge, causing breathlessness, but it didn't dampen the spirit of adventure. Dinner at Steakhouse No. 316 offered a taste of the Old West with a perfectly cooked fillet steak and zesty margarita, though jetlag cut the evening short.
Summer Activities and Cultural Highlights
Morning began with elk sausage and eggs, introducing the writer to the local wildlife. An e-bike ride through wetlands and a visit to the Aspen Art Museum showcased the area's blend of nature and contemporary art. The museum's rooftop restaurant, while uninspiring in cuisine, offered stunning views of Mount Aspen.
Locals proved incredibly welcoming, dispelling any notions of snobbery often associated with similar European resorts. Shopping at Kemo Sabe, a Western-themed boutique, revealed high-end cowboy gear, with hats costing around $1,000 and a basic leather hatband priced at $8,776, highlighting the aspirational nature of tourists.
Evening Entertainment and Culinary Delights
Dinner at the historic Hotel Jerome, built to rival London's Savoy, featured a disappointing seven-course tasting menu but superb cocktails and tangible heritage. An Emmylou Harris concert at the Wheeler Opera House captivated with her Grammy-winning folk music in an elegant Victorian setting.
After another jetlag-shortened night, a cable car ride to Mount Aspen's peak for outdoor yoga provided relaxation with mountain views. Lunch at Ajax Tavern offered signature truffle fries, though the double beef burgers were mediocre.
Venturing to Snowmass: Rodeos and Adventure
A short drive to Snowmass introduced a different atmosphere, with the resort built around skiing. The Snowmass Rodeo featured cowboys and girls in designer gear, yet felt down-to-earth with family-friendly events like children's sheep-riding and bull-riding.
Summer transforms the slopes into a mountain biker's dream, with over 50 miles of trails. The Breathtaker Alpine Coaster provided thrills as toboggans raced downhill through the forest. Despite cloudy conditions hiding the Maroon Bells from Elk Camp's summit, the tree-covered landscapes enchanted with silver bark and birdsong.
Dining and Nightlife in Snowmass
Snowmass's nightlife is more low-key than Aspen's. Dinner at Aurum offered upscale Mediterranean-American fusion with outstanding steak and cocktails, while Kenichi served the best Japanese cuisine of the trip. Local bars like Zane's and The Tavern provided relaxed and lively settings, with country music adding to the ambiance.
The Grand Finale: Maroon Bells Descent
The trip concluded with a bike ride down from the Maroon Bells, where the twin peaks towered over pristine Maroon Lake, creating a spectacular send-off. The downhill journey back to Aspen perfectly capped a stunning adventure filled with natural wonders and luxurious experiences.
Travel Details and Booking Information
For those inspired to visit, United Airlines offers flights from Heathrow to Aspen via Denver or Chicago, with summer returns starting from £908. Accommodation options include the W Aspen from £540 per night and condominiums at The Crestwood in Snowmass from £220. More information is available through local tourism websites.
