France's lower house of parliament has unanimously approved a bill targeting fast fashion and ultra-fast fashion sold by online retail giants such as Shein and Temu. The measure, passed on 14 March, aims to offset the environmental impact of the industry by banning advertising for certain ultra-fast-fashion companies and imposing penalties of up to €10 (£8.54) per item by 2030. Retailers would also be required to display information on reuse, repair, recycling and environmental impact near the product's price.
Fast fashion, characterised by low-quality apparel produced rapidly to follow trends and sold at rock-bottom prices, has been criticised for its environmental and social costs. Emily Stochl, vice president of advocacy at sustainable fashion nonprofit Remake, argued that the low prices are artificially maintained by underpaying workers. She compared the addictive nature of fast fashion to tobacco, noting that advertising bans in the US and UK helped curb smoking.
Shein, a fast fashion behemoth founded in China and headquartered in Singapore, responded that the bill would worsen the purchasing power of French consumers during a cost-of-living crisis. However, Kathleen Talbot, chief sustainability officer at eco-friendly brand Reformation, described ultra-fast fashion as representing 'insane excess' in speed and volume. She suggested that regulation may be the only way to drive change, as overconsumption shows no sign of slowing.
The bill includes provisions to ensure that penalties collected are directed towards communities most impacted by fast fashion, particularly in the global south. Stochl emphasised that lawmakers should ensure funds flow to frontline communities facing environmental harm. Talbot expressed hope that the French bill, along with similar efforts like the New York Fashion Act, could serve as a model for other regulatory bodies.
