Thanks to Hollywood, American motels have a branding problem. They’re the backdrop to shootouts, seedy rendezvous and the sort of places where fugitives lie low while detectives ask questions at reception. After years of seeing them on screen, I had a pretty vivid idea of what awaited me on a California road trip: threadbare curtains, questionable carpets and, if the films were to be believed, the possibility of a body hidden somewhere nearby.
So when my friend and I found ourselves needing a cheap place to stay while driving the Golden State’s spectacular coastline, checking into a motel wasn’t exactly the highlight I was looking forward to. We were several days into a journey that had taken us from Los Angeles to Death Valley and back towards the Pacific. My travelling companion, an artist scouting locations for photography projects, and I had spent the first part of the journey staying in Airbnbs.
Discovering Motel 6 in Monterey
But by the time we rolled into Monterey – one of California’s most expensive coastal towns, where rooms typically start at around £180 a night and soar up to £800 in peak season – we had nowhere booked and little appetite for spending a fortune. A quick search on Booking.com threw up a Motel 6 for the equivalent of £50. It felt almost suspiciously cheap. Tired from a long day behind the wheel and without better options, it was time to put our motel preconceptions to the test.
Motel 6 is considered one of the largest operators of budget motels in the US and Canada. There are more than 1,300 locations, and when it started in 1962, rooms were just $6 a night – hence the name. Arriving around 7pm, we were greeted by a neon sign and a façade that looked reassuringly similar to the photos online, complete with white wooden balconies and an outdoor pool.
In films, motel receptionists often come with an air of suspicion. The man behind the desk, however, was all smiles. Within minutes, he had handed over our key and pointed us towards our second-floor room, accessed via an open-air walkway. He told us about the pool, should we fancy a dip, gave us the password for the free high-speed Wi-Fi and mentioned that complimentary coffee would be available in the lobby the following morning. The 52-room property was surprisingly quiet, almost as if we had the place to ourselves.
Stepping inside, we were immediately struck by how pleasant the room was. It looked more like a modern budget hotel than a movie-set crime scene, with an ocean-inspired colour palette and contemporary furnishings. There were two double beds, a work desk, a clothes rail, a wash basin with vanity mirror and an en-suite bathroom. Even complimentary shampoo and body wash! That night, I slept soundly, undisturbed by impromptu shootouts or rowdy parties. Despite the roadside location, traffic noise was virtually non-existent. I did wake briefly feeling a little warm – the mattress was covered with a plastic protector designed to guard against bed bugs and stains – but I soon drifted back to sleep.
A Second Try in San Luis Obispo
Encouraged by this unexpectedly positive experience, we decided to try another during a stop in San Luis Obispo, the charming Central Coast city located roughly halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco. As it happens, San Luis Obispo is widely regarded as the birthplace of the motel. Designed by Californian architect Arthur S. Heineman at a cost of $80,000, the Milestone Mo-Tel – a name Heineman coined by combining the words “motor” and “hotel” – welcomed its first guests on 12 December 1925.
According to local reports, it quickly became a popular stopover and hosted a string of famous guests, including Marilyn Monroe and her husband Joe DiMaggio, Ronald Reagan, Bob Hope, Lucille Ball and Clint Eastwood. The property ultimately fell victim to declining tourism and changing travel habits, closing in 1991. More than three decades later, redevelopment plans continue to be discussed, but today only the shell of the pioneering motel remains.
With the historic Milestone Mo-Tel no longer an option, we checked into the motel-style Inn at San Luis Obispo, another find from Booking.com. Rooms started at £57 per night for a queen room, or £61 for a king. Curious to see what an extra £4 would buy, we went for the upgrade. The difference was noticeable. At 330 square feet, the room felt considerably more spacious than our Motel 6 accommodation, with warmer lighting and a broader range of amenities. In fact, it reminded me of a Hilton we had stayed in earlier in the trip, despite costing less than a third of the price.
Amenities included a refrigerator, microwave, coffee maker, iron and ironing board, features more commonly associated with a mid-range hotel. The setting also elevated the experience, with a mountainous backdrop framing the terracotta-coloured two-storey building. Like Motel 6, there was a swimming pool, but here the outdoor space felt more like a destination in its own right. A hot tub sat alongside the pool, while tropical planting softened the decked area and created an atmosphere that encouraged guests to linger rather than simply pass through.
Changing Perceptions
Before this trip, the last time I had stayed in an American motel was almost 20 years ago, as a cash-strapped student traipsing around Los Angeles with a friend. That room had cost just £20 a night and, admittedly, helped cement my assumptions about what US motels were like. It was shabby, with worn carpets, damaged upholstery and a vaguely shady atmosphere that made us double-check the lock before going to sleep.
Returning to the motel scene two decades later completely changed my perspective. Many appear to have quietly reinvented themselves, catering to a new generation of travellers seeking value for money, comfort and convenience. In the process, they have shed much of their seedy reputation. No shootouts. No dodgy dealings. Just straightforward, affordable places to rest, recharge and continue the journey.
Virgin Atlantic flies direct from London to Los Angeles. For getting around, Avis offers car hire from the airport, while Uber is a convenient option for day trips.
