The Princess of Wales has long been celebrated for her mastery of soft diplomacy, often using her sartorial selections to convey nuanced yet powerful messages during official overseas engagements. However, according to insights from an upcoming documentary, one particular royal tour fell notably short of this standard.
A Diplomatic Dressing Disaster in India
Royal experts have scrutinised what they describe as a significant misstep during the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge's six-day tour of India in 2016. The forthcoming Channel 5 documentary, Kate: A Life in 10 Dresses, examines this visit in detail, highlighting how the royal couple's itinerary included meetings with Bollywood stars, a visit to the Taj Mahal, and a safari at Kaziranga National Park.
Despite a scheduled stop at one of India's premier fashion houses, Anita Dongre in Mumbai, the then-Duchess of Cambridge predominantly chose outfits from British labels throughout the tour. Her selections featured Indian-inspired patterns from brands such as Topshop, Anna Sui, Temperley London, and Jenny Packham, a decision some perceived as a missed opportunity to support local design talent.
Designer Disappointment and Critical Analysis
South Asian designer Onita Prasada, director of O'nitaa London, did not mince words in her assessment. 'It was a holy mess,' she recalled. 'I cannot put my finger on one garment that she wore over her visit to India that spoke volumes for the wealth of fashion that is available. Someone got it really wrong, I was disappointed.'
Royal commentator Daisy McAndrew elaborated on the principles of soft diplomacy in the documentary, stating: 'Soft diplomacy means dressing to the nines, on a mission of flattery to the government and people of that country, and fundamentally trying to improve the standing of the British government, people and Royal Family in that country that they're visiting.' Attire, therefore, holds paramount importance, with past royals often showing respect by incorporating national flag colours or wearing designs by local artisans.
The documentary notes that Kate did wear one design by Anita Dongre during the trip, but this was among the few instances of supporting Indian designers. Images from the tour show her in a Topshop dress at Kaziranga National Park, a Jenny Packham gown at a Bollywood-inspired gala, and a £4,500 Temperley London dress at a garden party in New Delhi.
A Lesson Learned: The 2019 Pakistan Tour
Three years later, during a royal tour of Pakistan in 2019, the Princess of Wales and her then-stylist Natasha Archer demonstrated a markedly different approach. Determined to avoid past criticisms, they engaged in extensive preparation to ensure cultural sensitivity and respect.
Baroness Ayesha Hazarika emphasised the careful balance required: 'They would have had to think really carefully about not crossing the line and looking like they're going to a fancy dress party because that is beyond cringe.'
Collaborative Preparation and Stylistic Success
In a bid to curate the perfect wardrobe, Archer sought expertise from Onita Prasada, visiting her London boutique specialising in Asian couture. 'There was a lot of interaction and communication between Natasha and myself,' Onita revealed, explaining that they discussed cuts, lengths, and cultural traditions extensively. Together, they selected over 300 outfits for Kate to try on.
Onita established specific guidelines, including the recommendation to wear a dupatta scarf as a sign of respect. The resulting ensembles were widely praised, with Kate wearing designs by esteemed Pakistani designer Maheem Khan among others.
Baroness Hazarika reflected on one standout look: 'I remember this look really well because she completely nailed it. The outfit was made by famous Pakistani designer Maheem Khan, and was hailed as a masterclass in diplomatic dressing. She looked naturally enthusiastic about respecting the culture and embracing fashion. It was a smart move for her, and she pulled it off.'
A Grand Finale in Islamabad
The tour culminated in a memorable reception in Islamabad, where the royal couple made a striking entrance in a decorated rickshaw fitted with lights for the occasion. The then-Duke of Cambridge wore a traditional black Sherwani with matching trousers at the National Monument of Pakistan, a choice that showcased formal Pakistani attire.
Daily Mail Royal Editor Rebecca English recalled the moment: 'It was very special for a number of reasons because before they arrived we were told they were going to arrive in a beautifully coloured tuk tuk.' This thoughtful display of traditional style was seen as a perfect homage to Pakistani culture, inspiring global audiences to view such dress in a new light.
The documentary Kate: A Life in 10 Dresses airs on Channel 5 on Sunday at 9:30pm, offering further insights into the evolution of the Princess of Wales's diplomatic wardrobe and the lessons learned from these high-profile tours.
