Welcome to Polished with Elise Wilson, where Daily Mail's qualified makeup artist and hair stylist answers your questions, shares advice, and trials the up-and-coming beauty and skincare trends so you don't have to.
Heading into winter is always a tricky time for our skin
What worked effortlessly just weeks ago can suddenly feel wrong. The routines that once delivered a glow are now leaving our skin tight, reactive and unpredictably sensitive. I found myself in exactly that position this year, clinging to a 'perfect' retinol and exfoliation routine I thought I had mastered, only to realise my skin was quietly deteriorating beneath it.
And according to Sydney-based advanced dermal therapist Elisa Osmo, that subtle seasonal shift is exactly where so many of us come unstuck – especially if we're hooked on our anti-ageing serums! It's a frustrating place to be, particularly when you've invested both time and money into a routine that promises clinical results.
What Elisa describes as 'gaslighting' in skincare
In reality, this is a widespread misunderstanding of how the skin communicates distress. 'Winter doesn't just give you dry skin, it fundamentally changes your skin's physiology,' Elisa told me. 'As winter hits, even the best skincare routines can suddenly backfire - leaving skin tight, reactive and sensitive. I learned this the hard way, with my ‘perfect’ retinol routine doing more harm than good, a mistake Elisa Osmo says is all too common this time of year' - Daily Mail beauty expert, Elise Wilson.
'Our oil production drops, our transepidermal water loss spikes, there are environmental stressors that compound, and then just when your barrier is screaming for support, we layer strong actives on top of it without adjusting frequency or intensity.' That's when I realised, if I (a beauty editor) was repeatedly making these skincare mistakes, I'm sure thousands of others are too.
So, if you want to maintain a great anti-ageing skincare routine and minimise the shedding, redness and discomfort, then read on for Elisa's top tips.
When 'purging' is actually damage
Part of the confusion lies in the difficulty of distinguishing between a legitimate adjustment phase and genuine barrier disruption when using strong actives like retinoids, acids and peels at home. According to Elisa, a typical retinol adjustment is relatively mild, short-lived and localised, for example, slight dryness or breakouts in familiar areas. Barrier damage, by contrast, presents more diffusely and persistently and often involves tightness across the entire face, visible redness, flaking that does not resolve, and a stinging or burning sensation when applying products that were previously well tolerated.
This distinction is critical, because continuing to push through what is assumed to be a 'purge' can, in reality, prolong and worsen underlying damage. According to Elisa, overdoing strong actives like retinol's and skincare acids on compromised skin can be causing more damage than good. Pictured: Naturium Retinol Complex Serum ($39). Retinoids are some of the most powerful ingredients in skincare, known for boosting collagen, speeding up cell turnover and improving pigmentation. But their strength also makes them easy to misuse. Elisa says the biggest mistakes she sees is layering multiple actives like retinol, glycolic acid and vitamin C without properly supporting the skin barrier first. Pictured: Skinstitut Retinol Serum ($64) and Q+A Retinol Facial Serum ($23.99).
The cumulative effect of overusing actives
Retinoids, which are the broader category that includes retinol, are widely regarded as some of the most effective topical ingredients available, with well-established benefits including increased collagen production to plump fine lines, accelerated cell turnover and improved pigmentation. However, their potency is precisely what makes them easy to misuse. Elisa notes that one of the most common issues she sees in her clinic is the layering of multiple active ingredients, such as retinol, glycolic acid and vitamin C, without sufficient attention to hydration or barrier support.
Even when each product is high quality, the cumulative effect can overwhelm the skin, leading to increased sensitivity, inflammation and a compromised barrier. In this sense, it is not the individual products that are problematic, but the overall load placed on the skin at any one time. If the skin is already showing signs of irritation, Elisa's advice is to take a step back rather than push forward, which means temporarily pausing active ingredients and simplifying the routine to focus on gentle cleansing, hydration and barrier repair.
A more strategic approach to winter skincare
If the skin is already showing signs of irritation, Elisa's advice is to take a step back rather than push forward, which means temporarily pausing active ingredients and simplifying the routine to focus on gentle cleansing, hydration and barrier repair. Once the skin has stabilised, actives can be reintroduced gradually, with a particular emphasis on reducing frequency during winter months. For most people, using retinol two to three times per week is sufficient to maintain results without triggering inflammation. Importantly, the goal is not to abandon anti-ageing actives altogether (that would be a crime), but to use them in a way that aligns with the skin's current capacity. Pictured: Reju-All Advanced LC-Ceramide Barrier Cream ($42.90).
Many swear by a technique called a 'retinol sandwich' designed to soften the impact of vitamin A on the skin. Rather than applying retinol directly onto freshly cleansed skin, you layer it between two coats of moisturiser, applying a hydrating layer first, then your retinol, followed by another layer of moisturiser on top. Pictured: Embryolisse Lait-Creme Sensitive ($37.69) and Dr.Jart+ Ceramidin Skin Barrier Moisturising Cream ($35).
How to layer actives
- Target one or two skin concerns at a time by following these skincare pairings and minimise irritation.
- For brighter-looking skin, pair retinoids with niacinamide.
- For even-looking skin, use vitamin C derivatives alongside glycolic acid.
- For smoother-looking skin, combine retinaldehyde with hyaluronic acid.
- For clearer-looking skin, pair salicylic acid with niacinamide and zinc.
- For hydration, use hyaluronic acid with niacinamide.
Try a 'retinol sandwich'
It might sound a bit odd, but at its core, the 'retinol sandwich' technique is simply a buffering technique designed to soften the impact of vitamin A on the skin. Rather than applying retinol directly onto freshly cleansed skin, you layer it between two coats of moisturiser, applying a hydrating layer first, then your retinol, followed by another layer of moisturiser on top. Some people prefer to use an oil instead, depending on their skin type, but the principle remains the same and each step is typically spaced out slightly to allow proper absorption, rather than everything being rushed on at once.
The main appeal of this method is that it helps reduce the likelihood of irritation, particularly when you're first introducing retinol into your routine. By placing a layer of moisturiser underneath, you're effectively creating a buffer that slows down how deeply the active penetrates, which can minimise common side effects like redness, dryness and flaking. That said, it's still important to build up slowly and pay close attention to how your skin responds, rather than assuming more frequent use will automatically deliver better results.
Small adjustments that make a significant difference
What becomes clear is that an effective winter routine does not require a complete overhaul, but rather a series of thoughtful adjustments. Switching from gel-based cleansers to more nourishing formulations like creams is a great place to start, as is incorporating richer moisturisers. On Elisa's advice, I have started prioritising barrier-supporting ingredients such as ceramides and vitamin B5, which can all help to maintain skin integrity during colder months.
Elisa recommends focusing on gentle, barrier-supportive options too, like hydrating facials, enzyme treatments and LED therapy, which calm and strengthen the skin without overwhelming it.
When to seek out professional help
When your skin is already feeling compromised, it’s tempting to pull back completely and avoid treatments altogether, however, according to Elisa, winter can actually be one of the most effective times to reset your skin, as long as you’re choosing the right kind of support. Rather than aggressive resurfacing or anything overly stimulating, she recommends shifting the focus towards treatments that work with the skin while it’s in a more vulnerable state.
Hydrating facials are one of the simplest but most underrated options in winter, helping to replenish moisture levels while calming inflammation and reinforcing the skin barrier. More advanced treatments like skin needling can also be effective, but only once the barrier is stable and properly supported. Similarly, enzyme-based treatments offer a softer alternative to traditional exfoliation, encouraging cell turnover without the harshness of stronger acids that can further destabilise already sensitised skin.
LED light therapy is another standout during the colder months, particularly for its ability to support healing, reduce inflammation and improve overall skin function without physically stressing the skin. For those looking for more advanced results, winter also presents an opportunity to explore treatments like skin needling, but, as Elisa emphasises, only when the skin barrier is stable and properly supported. When done correctly, it can help improve texture, stimulate collagen and address lingering pigmentation from summer, all while the reduced UV exposure makes recovery more manageable.
Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are solely my own and do not reflect those of any brands or companies mentioned. This content is not sponsored or endorsed.
