Croatian Olive Oil: The Mediterranean's Hidden Gem for Health and Flavour
When shoppers reach for olive oil, Croatia is rarely the first country that comes to mind. Yet, among connoisseurs and health advocates, Croatian olive oil is discussed with near-evangelical zeal. Amira Arasteh explores why one of the Mediterranean's least discussed producers might also be among its most impressive.
There has been a significant surge of interest in extra-virgin olive oil (EVOO) over recent years. Nutrition experts, gut health advocates, and wellness gurus are all championing oils high in polyphenols—natural compounds linked to reduced inflammation, improved digestion, and overall wellbeing.
Olive oil has long been the culinary shorthand for the Mediterranean diet. While most consumers automatically select bottles from Spain, Italy, or Greece, there is another contender quietly earning accolades: Croatian olive oil.
Small-Scale Production, Exceptional Results
Croatia produces approximately 30,000 tonnes of olive oil annually. This pales in comparison to Spain's 1.5 million tonnes or Italy's 300,000 tonnes. The disparity is evident, but volume has never been the goal. Much of Croatia's olive cultivation is confined to its coastline and islands, where terrain, climate, and tradition ensure production remains small-scale and hands-on.
At international competitions, Croatian olive oils consistently outperform those from far larger producers. More than 80 per cent of Croatian oils win medals at events like the New York International Olive Oil Competition, surpassing both Spain and Italy.
"The best olive oil is made from green olives," explains Goran Morović, owner of Villa Nai 3.3. "Oil from black or overripe olives is much lower quality and less healthy."
Why Polyphenols Matter in Olive Oil
The conversation around olive oil quality increasingly focuses on polyphenols and their associated health benefits. "The olive tree is the plant with the highest amount of polyphenols," says Goran. "They are important because polyphenols reduce inflammation, which sits behind almost every disease."
A three-year study conducted in Greece, designed to identify which olive-oil-producing country had the highest average polyphenol levels, placed Croatia at the top. Croatian samples consistently recorded higher levels than both Italian and Spanish oils.
In 2019, Nai 3.3 was measured at more than 1,600mg of polyphenols per kilogram—well into gold-medal territory. For context, an EVOO is considered high quality if it has between 250-400mg of polyphenols.
Polyphenol levels, however, are fleeting. "Olive oil can only get worse with time," Goran explains. "It is not like wine." This underscores why harvest timing, temperature control, and immediate pressing are so critical.
At larger-scale producers, olives are often stored in vast outdoor piles before processing, where heat and oxidation degrade both flavour and nutritional value. In Croatia's smaller operations, olives are picked and pressed quickly, usually at temperatures below 26 degrees Celsius, preserving both aroma and antioxidants.
Olive Oil Beyond the Kitchen
At Villa Nai, olive oil's role extends far beyond cooking. The hotel's restaurants, Restaurant 3.3 and Grotta 11 000, use the oil throughout their menus, pairing it with organic produce from nearby farms and the surrounding Adriatic.
Grotta 11 000 focuses on cooking over open fires and charcoal grills, using olive wood from the groves themselves. Restaurant 3.3 offers a more contemporary presentation of Mediterranean cooking, featuring goat's milk, cheese, and yoghurt from local producers; bread baked in-house; and vegetables grown on the island. Olive oil underpins every dish, providing continuity across flavours and courses.
Nothing is wasted. The olive paste left over from pressing—often discarded elsewhere—is repurposed into spa treatments rich in vitamin E and antioxidants. Olive leaf tea, made from organically grown leaves, is another daily ritual. "It contains twice the antioxidants of green tea," says Goran. "It is better to consume both olive oil and olive leaf tea rather than just one."
It is this very olive leaf tea that Goran claims cured his gout after drinking it twice a day for a few years. This is certainly more palatable than the current trend of consuming a spoonful of olive oil every morning.
From Island Groves to Michelin-Starred Kitchens
This respect for local olive oil extends beyond Dugi Otok. On the island of Lošinj, at Hotel Alhambra's Michelin-starred restaurant Alfred Keller, Austrian head chef Michael Gollenz builds much of his cooking around oils produced nearby.
"I collaborate with local producer Danilo Ivković, whose olive oil is simply exquisite," he says. "It is fresh and fruity, with mild spiciness and refined bitter notes."
Gollenz uses it in homemade focaccia, carpaccio, salads, and fish dishes, often keeping preparations deliberately simple. A thinly sliced catch of the day dressed with local olive oil, lemon zest, and salt is a recurring theme—showcasing all that olive oil has to offer.
"Croatian olive oil elevates a dish from a meal into an experience," he says. "It reflects the landscape it comes from."
Why Croatia Should Be on Your Olive Oil Radar
The fact is that Croatian olive oil may never dominate the global market—but that is precisely what makes it special. Limited production and close attention to detail have created oils that prioritise freshness, flavour, and health in equal measure.
As Goran puts it, only half-jokingly: "You should not eat your olives. You should drink your olive oil." With its exceptional polyphenol levels, artisanal production methods, and growing recognition among chefs and health experts, Croatian olive oil is undoubtedly the Mediterranean's best-kept secret.
