English red wines, once a niche and often overlooked category, are gaining traction as consumer tastes shift towards lighter, fruitier options. Despite accounting for less than 5% of all English wine, according to WineGB, these wines are increasingly available on the high street, with retailers like Ocado and Waitrose Cellar stocking a selection. However, prices remain a barrier, with most bottles costing between £15 and £25, reflecting the small-scale nature of England's winemaking industry.
Climate change is playing a role in making red wine production more viable in the UK, while a growing appetite for light, juicy reds—often served chilled as an alternative to rosé—is driving demand. These wines typically have lower alcohol content, aligning with a trend towards moderate drinking. Pinot noir and pinot meunier dominate the English red scene, but hybrid grapes like dornfelder, rondo, regent, and divico are also gaining ground, bred to withstand cooler and more unpredictable weather.
Winemakers are embracing the challenge. Adrian Pike of Westwell in Kent notes that while making reds in England is always a challenge due to the marginal climate, long, slow ripening periods add ripe flavours, allowing for pretty, light reds that reflect their origin. Westwell's Pinot Noir 2023, for example, offers wild red fruit and herbal notes, distinct from its French counterparts. Similarly, Ben Adams' sold-out Enmill Field 2022 from Wiltshire showcases a crunchy, redcurranty profile.
For those willing to explore, several English reds are recommended. Winbirri Signature (£18, Waitrose Cellar) is a plummy dornfelder from Norfolk. Billy Sandridge Barton 2023 (£21.95, Thorne Wines) is a zippy, tart pinot blend from Devon, best served chilled. M&S Balfour Pinot Noir (£22, Ocado) offers elegance from Kent. Westwell Pinot Noir 2023 (£27.50, Shrine to the Vine) is a lipsmacker that puts Kent on the map. Bolney Estate Dark Harvest (£16, Waitrose Cellar) is a dark, food-friendly hybrid blend from Sussex. Oast Wood Divico 2023 (£31, The Tudor Peacock) is a deeply spiced, purple wine from 100% divico grapes. Sophie Evans Pinot 2023 (£34, Pullo) is a light, almost rosé-like pinot blend from Kent.
While prices remain high, advocates of the 'buy less, buy better' philosophy will find these wines offer unique character. As climate and tastes evolve, English reds are poised to move from niche to mainstream, offering a distinctive alternative to Mediterranean counterparts.
