Whether you're watching England in the beer-soaked madness of Boxpark or from the comfort of your sofa, the one thing that rarely changes is how the game looks. The green square is always filled with white or red shirts racing from one side to the other. But have you ever wondered what it’s like in the places the cameras can’t see? How it sounds or smells?
Well, for the World Cup in the USA, there’s plenty to look at. At this tournament, perhaps more than any other, the experience surrounding the game has as much razzmatazz as the football itself.
Comfort and Showbiz Inside Dallas Stadium
The first thing you need to understand is that the inside of Dallas Stadium is comfortable. So comfortable, in fact, it would feel pretty alien to any regular match-going European football fan. Where normally you’d find squinting fans pressing a palm to their forehead to avoid the sun’s glare, inside AT&T Stadium, the oppressive Texas sun doesn't interfere with your enjoyment of the game.
Then there is the pre-game experience. Given America’s reputation for showbiz, it would be disappointing if we didn’t get a massive show. Our two hosts for the evening are decked out in cowboy hats and immediately get to work revving up the crowd. One is cheering for England; the other is backing Croatia.
Before long, wailing guitars tell us it’s time for some NFL-style announcement videos. The England players look slightly awkward as they pose for the camera, cupping their ears and flexing their muscles. You can’t miss any of this because in the centre of the pitch is a four-sided screen bigger than the penalty area.
Before the players emerge, there's time for a competition to see whose fans can make the most noise. A massive graphic equaliser measures the decibels made by the Croatian and England fans (the Three Lions win, just). Those who might not know the words to the national anthems get a helping hand in the form of karaoke-style lyrics onscreen that change colour to let you know when to sing.
Match Atmosphere and Distractions
Then, after the hosts have urged fans to “make some noise” in the most American way ever, we’re underway. Once the game kicks off, things go a little still. There are plenty of diehard England fans in the house, but the atmosphere isn't on the same level as the Euros two years back, when stadiums were wild from start to finish. Things do spark to life once England are awarded a penalty to a chorus of cheers, followed quickly by gasps when Kane misses.
As the game progresses, I find it hard not to be distracted by the huge screens. They might give a brilliant view, but at times, there is almost too much to look at. There are close-ups of Harry Kane’s face that are so tight it feels, at a glance, like he’s sitting right next to you. The enthusiasm fans show when appearing on the giant screen is unlike anything you’d get in England; they scream so loud you can practically see their tonsils and the veins bulging on their necks.
The sound of the goals is still intense. Croatia’s equaliser is greeted with an “ooo” that echoes around the arena, and for each of England’s four goals, the two tiers of white-shirted fans bounce in unison, their arms flailing. Even from the other side of the stadium, you can see the bedlam.
Halftime Entertainment and Adverts
As might be expected from an American World Cup, a barrage of adverts hits as soon as it’s halftime. One features a lucky England fan shown on the big screen sitting on a plastic chair behind the advertising hoarding, wearing a St George’s bowler hat. “He’s got the best seat in the house,” roars the announcer, “just for being a Verizon customer.” The sign in front of him is, of course, emblazoned with the mobile phone company’s name. The Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders then perform an energetic dance because, well, we’re in Dallas, aren’t we?
Midway through the second half, there is a massive cheer as Dallas Cowboys legends Dez Bryant and Emmitt Smith are shown on the big screen—a sign that, regardless of how many white and checkerboard shirts are visible in the crowd, many of those wearing them have local accents. More cheers and catcalls erupt a short while later, which is confusing until I look up at the giant screen and see the cameraman has zoomed in on two beautiful Croatian women. It makes me wonder, though: is the crowd watching the field or the screen?
During the second-half hydration break, Dallas Stadium momentarily becomes a Killers concert, with the fans belting out a tuneful sing-along to Mr. Brightside.
Post-Match Celebrations
Finally, the game ends, and the stadium singing begins. After a slightly limp version of Three Lions, there is an enthusiastic rendition of Wonderwall, followed by Sweet Caroline—which is fitting, because Neil Diamond is, of course, an American music legend. There’s nothing left to do but walk back out into the Texan heat for some barbecued meat and an ice-cold beer.
